Ah, Thanksgiving. The Olympics for home cooks.
It’s the only occasion for which going out is generally considered a second-rate alternative to cooking at home. The pressure’s on. Who will host? What’s on the menu? How long does it take to thaw a turkey? Who’s invited? Everyone except that weird uncle that smells funny? What’s in mincemeat pie, anyway?
Luckily, in my family, I’m a supporting cast member. I help coordinate the menu, do most of my cooking at my house, then tote several dishes to the event to finish and reheat on-site. Which suits me perfectly.
If you think about it, most people are supporting cast members. Let’s say that the average guest list for Thanksgiving dinner includes eight adults. This means that only one out of eight people is actually spit-shining the baseboards and paying attention to those articles titled “Let’s Talk Turkey”. The rest of us are just showing up – some, like me, with dishes in tow, and others with a bottle of wine, or a little something from the House of Pies, or just their appetite.
So let’s discuss strategy for us lieutenants, shall we? I have learned in my few years that, in late November, organization is just as important as inspiration. It wasn’t long ago that I was literally in a shopping-cart traffic jam in the produce section of Central Market on the Tuesday before Thanksgiving. I had a monster grocery list, thinking that since CM carries everything I could possibly need, I would make one big trip and be the paragon of efficiency. Instead, I am quite serious when I say that I could not move my shopping cart, and all I could think of was that giant incessant stopwatch from 60 Minutes: TICK-TICK, TICK-TICK, TICK-TICK.
Oh, young Padawan, what were you thinking?
So, I’ll share with you my current modus operandi, and I’m hoping you’ll share yours with me.
1) Two or three weeks before Thanksgiving, I start stocking up on pantry staples. Stuff I know I’m going to use during the fall or winter, regardless of what happens on Turkey Day. The various types of sugar and flour. Sea salt and black peppercorns. Canned pumpkin and cranberry sauce (because even if I make the most amazing sauce from fresh berries, someone will be pining for the can-shaped stuff). I skim through my spice rack and sniff-test anything I don’t recall using since last year. (If I can tell what it is by the sniff alone, it passes. If not, it gets tossed.)
2) One week before Thanksgiving, I firm up my plans for specific dishes. Side dishes and dessert are where it’s at, folks. Appetizers, though I love them, have no place on this day – this allows everyone to address the turkey with their appetite intact. Turkey itself, along with the gravy, has no upside, as I mentioned at the end of my previous post. Side dishes give the menu its personality and zing. There’s always room for dessert, and being the last thing served, it’s usually remembered (for better or for worse!).
3) The Saturday before Thanksgiving, I make two grocery lists. The first list I shop for that day, and it includes anything with any kind of reliable shelf life. Dry goods. Root vegetables, like onions, parsnips, and potatoes. Any spices I missed before. Most dairy. Eggs. Dried fruit. Wine.
The second list is much shorter, at least in theory. Initially, it’s mostly produce that won’t hold up from Saturday to Thursday, like fresh green beans. But inevitably, two things will happen during that first trip. First, I will forget a thing or two (or ten). Those are tacked onto the second list. Second, the store will be stocked out of a thing or two, or I won’t be able to find it. Again, those go on the second list.
4) On that Sunday/Monday/Tuesday before Thanksgiving, I’m doing any advance work that I can, at a leisurely pace. Making pie crusts or homemade broth, for example. If I’m doing a pumpkin cheesecake, I’ll grind up the graham crackers for the crust. These are small things that are no big deal to do in advance, and I always thank myself Wednesday night.
5) Shop for the second list. This happens late Tuesday, or the moment the store opens on Wednesday, when crowds are at a minimum. The list is grouped by section of the store, and the idea is to slip in and out as quickly as possible (remember that stopwatch?). Ideally, I use the express check-out lane because I already have 95% of what I need.
Usually, grocery shopping is a very relaxing task for me. Not on this day. My approach is a cross between a cat burglar and one of those mall walkers in a rayon track suit. I breeze right by the poor soul standing in produce, who’s agonizing about whether he should roast fingerlings instead of making candied yams. I swipe a bag of cranberries at full speed. Parents snatch their small children from my path. Stockers stand at attention as I pass.
6) I spend all day Wednesday doing as close to everything possible. (I have the luxury of taking the day off, which I know not everyone can do.) I agree wholeheartedly with the concept of mise en place, but other times of the year, I am only a part-time disciple. On Thanksgiving Eve, it’s a must. I draw out the strategy and the order of attack. I try to clean as I go. If I’m lucky, the husband has pity on me and helps out with the dishes. This year, I am sure I will have an almost-thirty-pound, almost-one-year-old strapped to my person at some point. It doesn’t matter. It’s the Olympics!
If I’m successful, I will spend most of Thursday morning drinking coffee, getting dressed, and consulting with Matt on the best way to pack the car without sabotaging anything. Head shaking on his part will ensue. And then, finally, we’re en route. On the way, I’m applying makeup and swearing about what I’ll do differently next year.
What’s YOUR plan of attack, dear reader?
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Here’s a recipe that has served me well during the holidays… it’s a bit like sweet potato pie without the crust. It’s fantastic to take to someone else’s house because it can be made days in advance and easily reheated.
Sweet Potato Supreme
3-1/2 cups mashed sweet potatoes*
3/4 cup sugar
3 large eggs
1/3 cup evaporated milk
1/4 cup butter or margarine, melted
1-1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup firmly packed brown sugar
1 cup flaked coconut
1/2 cup chopped pecans (optional)
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons butter or margarine, softened
Combine first seven ingredients, stirring until smooth. Pour into a lightly greased 2-1/2 quart casserole dish; cover. Combine brown sugar and next four ingredients, stirring with a fork; cover. Chill potatoes and topping separately up to 3 days.
Let potatoes and topping stand at room temperature 30 minutes. Sprinkle topping evenly over potatoes. Bake at 350ºF for 45 minutes, or until thoroughly heated.
Serves 10 to 12.
*Boil scrubbed sweet potatoes in their jackets until tender but not soft. Remove the skins, then mash or process in a food mill or ricer. Alternatively, peel and cube the sweet potatoes before boiling. If you must, you can use canned sweet potatoes (three 14-ounce cans should do the trick).
#1 by Emily on November 23, 2009 - 9:24 pm
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Seriously Laura! I can’t even come close. I am fully planning on running to the store Thursday morning hoping it will still be open, as Aaron is calling me with yet more items to buy while the family is already at our house hungry. I only wish I could pretend to be this prepared. Actually, this year we ordered a turducken and a few trays on serious local soul food. Happy Thanksgiving in nola.
#2 by Laura on November 23, 2009 - 9:43 pm
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I know I’m crazy. It’s what I do. I’ve tried to stop, but I’ve given up. In other news: Turducken! Yum.
#3 by Melissa on November 23, 2009 - 9:42 pm
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I do the stock-up as well. And it takes at least 2 days to thaw a turkey in the fridge. And I usually have the menu planned far in advance like you. But I’m low on creativity and surfing the internet capability right now.
I’ve learned to not rock the boat too much and make some icky-ish things (green bean casserole with canned green beans… urg) along with some new things. That way you aren’t trying to change Thanksgiving for crying out loud.
#4 by Laura on November 24, 2009 - 8:57 pm
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Melissa, I remember that you hosted Thanksgiving (or Christmas) at your house right after you moved in. Wowzer! That puts you right up there with Jenny in the super mom category.
Andy and I were just trading emails about not rocking the boat with the menu. His family is exceptionally open to new flavors and great food – and I’m sooo jealous. Like you, I have had to learn not to rock the boat. This is morphing into a future post in the works about knowing your audience…
#5 by Mark on November 23, 2009 - 9:47 pm
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I especially enjoyed the section about head shaking by your huband… I wonder if his neck gets tired… he seems to do that a lot!
#6 by Laura on November 24, 2009 - 8:54 pm
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Matt has the strongest, most limber neck muscles on the planet, from years of exercise. Although I must say that I’m waaaay better at all this than in our early marriage. I was used to being a sous chef for Mom… it took me a couple of years of running my own kitchen to get the hang of how get everything done and still allow time to make myself presentable. Poor Matt.
#7 by Jenny on November 24, 2009 - 7:55 am
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I was just cracking up when I read this! I am the crazy thanksgiving lady. I get up on thanksgiving morning like most do in their wedding day it is my most favorite day of the year. I am always the host and I have very specific rules. I do all the cooking and I do mean ALL. I am off work the Wednesday before but like you Laura the prep begins days in advance. Guests which this year number 16-20 still waiting to hear form some people can bring wine but I DO ALL THE COOKING! Except for the cranberries, by mother in law makes theses, as it is the one dish I don’t like and can give over as I have an issue with slimy cooked fruit.
I must digress for a moment and explain a thing or two about NYC living, so I recently moved into a huge apartment as the 5 of us had outgrown our space, now hold your laughter, we are now in 1,474 square foot pad and we feel like we have arrived, after all we now have two bathrooms! Needless to say the kitchen is not that big but big by NYC standards. So part of my thanksgiving Olympics is related to space and coordination. We have an elaborate dance done between the actual fridge and the cooler that is placed on the fire escape for additional cold storage. It also doubles as the receptacle that will hold the turkey Wednesday night to brine. My husband fears every year that we will get in trouble with the coop board for brining a turkey on the fire escape but I just calm him by saying how can they get mad we will invite them in for leftovers if they have anything to say.
So, I do have a grocery strategy, it involves lists organized by aisle of the store and bags of goldfish and juice boxes for kid distraction. There is a separate list for the greenmarket and then the last minuet list for the local bodega, which I will hit tonight on my way home. To date I am feeling like I am on track, the corn bread and whole wheat bread are made for the stuffing and the ginger snaps are crushed for the pumpkin tart. I am only feeling a little behind as I wish I had cooked and mashed the butternut squash for the lasagna but I can still deal with that tonight and be on top of my game.
I think the reason why I love thanksgiving is because I get to do what I love, cook and while you have to invite all of the family that makes you nuts you also get to invite all of your friends who have no other place to go which always makes the family thing a little easier!
Enjoy the cooking and eating and just remember you consume more butter, eggs and sugar between now and new years than you do the whole rest of the year!!
#8 by Laura on November 24, 2009 - 8:50 pm
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All I can say is… wow. ALL the cooking, for the Olympics? Hats off to you, girl! I would be completely intimidated. My family would come over to find me hiding in the storage space under the kitchen sink, curled up in the fetal position, sucking my thumb.
And I won’t even start on the topic of Thanksgiving grocery shopping with kids in tow. Clearly you are super-mom.
Your mention of inviting the family that makes you nuts reminds me of an article I read today – either NY Times or WSJ – about the crazy family drama during Thanksgiving. One lady told a story about her mom giving her a total guilt trip about not trying any of her cookies, so she finally gave in. Then when she reached for another, the mom said, “Do you really think you should have a second one?” What?!
#9 by andy on November 24, 2009 - 6:48 pm
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i didn’t know you were bilingual
#10 by andy on November 24, 2009 - 7:09 pm
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laura-i respect you in the kitchen more than…well anyone else…but…
i NEVER boil sweet potatoes. they aren’t like regular potatoes. for one, you can never get the water out of them. they’re always watery. and boiling them ruins the flavor and texture. plus, when you bake them you get the malliard effect.
i have baked sweet potatoes in large quantities before [my record is 87 in a single LARGE oven with 4 racks that i rotated every 15 minutes], but i normally bake them while something else is cooking in the oven [like a turkey] so i don’t have to use the whole oven for 3 or 4 potatoes.
now, this is going to send a chill up your spine, but i would rather microwave them than boil them.
i’m just sayin’…
#11 by Laura on November 24, 2009 - 8:41 pm
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Andy – I love the feedback. I bow to your culinary wizardry. This is what WFI is all about, bro!
Wonderful insight on the sweet potatoes. I have never had that problem, but perhaps I just don’t know any better? Or do you think that boiling them in their jackets JUST until tender (not soft) prevents the problems you mentioned? Matt doesn’t eat sweet potatoes, so this is the only time of year I make them in any quantity to speak of. Otherwise, I toss one in the oven for myself while baking something else. So, given that you have cooked more sweet potatoes AT ONE TIME than I have in my entire life, I might never boil another sweet potato.
And I am all about strategic use of the microwave, including “baking” potatoes… sounds like fodder for a future post.
#12 by andy on November 25, 2009 - 8:06 pm
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well, i’m probably too late for this ‘tip’ but something just occurred to me. i was rolling out some pie dough and i figured some of your readers might find it useful. when i roll out pie or tart crusts, i use powdered sugar instead of flour on the board. sure, it adds some sweetness but it doesn’t hurt anything. the point being is that you don’t get that toughness from working the dough with flour.
#13 by Laura on November 25, 2009 - 8:33 pm
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Andy, I remember you telling me this before, but I’ve never tried it… Shari, another WFI friend, mentioned on Facebook the idea of making pie crust with freezer-cold vodka, since vodka’s freezing point is lower than a household freezer. In theory, the aklie-haul cooks off during baking. Ever heard of that? Ever tried it?
#14 by andy on November 25, 2009 - 8:53 pm
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vodka? pie crust? gosh i love these olympics!!
#15 by Laura on November 25, 2009 - 9:12 pm
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I’m thinking that you or Jenny is going to win the gold. I am guessing she’s sweating the details right now in that small NYC apartment… she’ll probably be up until 3:00 am. (Shudder.) Jenny, be sure and tell us how it went!
#16 by andy on November 27, 2009 - 9:46 am
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ok folks, how did it go? . . . sorry, laura. i got up earlier than you.
my biggest event yesterday was when my grandson dumped a whole can of fish food in the aquarium. by the time i got to it i had 4 dead ones [each was at least 3 years old]. after all the thanxgiving festivities, just when i wanted to sit down and watch texas beat a&m, i wound up spending the first half breaking down a 20-gallon aquarium. it was all wonderful…a story for the ages.
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