Archive for January, 2010

Lagniappe: Ryan’s Pizza… The Results Are In!

Earlier this week, I mentioned that Ryan was hosting a party and serving individual pizzas made with the dough recipe I posted here on WFI.

Well, the results are in, and the pizzas look amazing!  I asked Ryan if he had any feedback on the recipe, and he said that he discovered that baking two pans of pizza at once is a no-no… because the pizza on the bottom rack won’t rise.  Very true, and a great tip.

Looking forward to posting more WFI test kitchen results.  If any of you are cooking along and want to share, don’t be shy now, ya hear?

Lagniappe: Ryan’s Debatable Pizza Dough

Remember how the pizza dough post was inspired by my buddy Ryan? Well, he’s taking it to the streets, people.

Ryan is the Texas A&M campus chair for Kay Bailey Hutchison’s gubernatorial campaign, and he’s hosting a party during the Republican candidates’ debate this Friday. He’s going to be facilitating a discussion during and after the debate… all the while rolling out crusts for folks to make their own personal pizzas with. Wow.

And as if that’s not enough, he’s going to be trying out the recipe I posted this week, and sending photos to share with you. How cool is that?!

Good luck, Ryan! Can’t wait to hear how it turns out.

Pizza, Prosecco, and Playtime

Many of you know that I’m a huge advocate of celebrating milestones, big and small.  I’ve already mentioned my innate tendency to over-hype things, even to the point of inventing special occasions – so you can only imagine what happens when a real reason to celebrate comes along.  If you even so much as hint at some good news, I’ll stand and tap my glass with a fork, asking whether I may have everyone’s attention please, so that I can extol your many virtues.  To me, it’s part of what life is all about – holding hands during the lows, and singing praises during the highs.

I’d already made plans to write about homemade pizza this week, at the request of my good friend Ryan.  (College student + proud new Kitchen-Aid owner + pizza dough recipe = one immensely popular guy.  Not that he needs any help…)  But the topic really began to take shape Thursday night, when Meredith called to say that she’d sealed the deal on a huge promotion at work.  As in, look-out-world-here-I-come, huge.  As in, remember-the-little-people-when-you-get-to-the-top, huge.  And guess what one of Meredith’s favorite foods in the world is?  Pizza, baby!

We compared calendars, and we made plans for her to drive down just two days later, with her two beautiful girls in tow.  I felt like Hannibal from the A-Team… I love it when a plan comes together.

Time to get to work.  Pizza for dinner, but now, it needed to be more than just interesting enough to write about here.  I needed to  jazz it up enough to celebrate Meredith’s impending domination of the corporate world, and it had to be kid-friendly enough to not resort to PB&J for the girls.  Considering the short lead time and the fact that our weekend was already a bit crammed, it also had to be relatively simple.

Let’s do this! (I was almost pumped enough to start jumping and chanting “pants on the ground!”, but since there were no mullet-bearing defensive ends nearby, I was able to contain myself.)

To up the ante on the celebration side, I picked up a bottle of Prosecco, which is an Italian sparkling wine and a natural match for the pizza. (It’s similar to Champagne, but Champagne is named after the region in France where it’s made – so by definition, it’s French.)  I am a total sucker for bubbly of any kind, so I got all giddy at just the thought of breaking out the Riedel flutes.  (Celebration element: check!)

Cate's masterpieces.

To mix it up on the pizza front, I decided to try grilling it for the first time.  Four-year-old Cate happens to enjoy cooking with Auntie Laura, so she helped me roll out small individual size portions of the dough as thin as possible* and rub them with olive oil.  Matt tossed the crusts on the grill**, oil side down, for 2-3 minutes over high heat, just long enough to crisp up one side and let it release from the grate. Then we took them off the fire, flipped them over, and Cate topped them with a thin layer of sauce and slices of fresh mozzarella cheese (cheese pizza = kid-friendly and simple.  Check and check!).  They went back on the grill until the cheese was melted, the sauce was hot, and the bottom was crispy.***

Back in the kitchen, the pizzas that were destined for adult consumption were topped with arugula and a few shavings of Parmesan.  (Arugula on pizza?  Interesting enough for the blog.  Check!)

And so it came to be that we celebrated Meredith’s accomplishment in true WFI fashion.  We clinked glasses, enjoyed a twist on one of her favorite meals, caught up on each other’s goings-on, and played with our kids.

Now, to all the rest of you ne’er do wells – get to work!  I need another excuse to drink more Prosseco.


* I actually prefer a thicker crust on my pizza, but I figured out that when grilling, it’s important to keep it thin so that it can cook through before charring.

** I haven’t yet shared the story of why I don’t personally grill anymore.  It has to do with me setting the grill on fire – not once, but TWICE.  I’m not talking about a cute little “oh look, honey, the fat from the butterflied chicken is flaring up!” fire… I’m talking oh-crap, somebody-grab-an-extinguisher, flames-licking-the-side-of-the-house kind of fire.  (Did I mention that I did that twice?)

*** During this experiment, I realized that one of things I love most about pizza is the browned cheese.  I’m that girl that picks the stray over-browned cheese from the edge of the crust – it’s my favorite part.  Unfortunately, being that a grill only provides heat from the bottom, grilled pizza does not result in any browning o’ the cheese: a significant drawback from this particular cooking method.  Be warned.

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I realize that this recipe looks ridiculously long at first glance.  Fear not!  It includes three methods for preparation (mixing by hand, by stand mixer, and by food processor) and two methods for cooking (oven and grill).

Also, If you’re using a baker’s peel or a pizza stone, I assume that you know how to use them and I do not include the specific instructions here.


Basic Pizza Dough
Adapted from Beth Hensperger’s Bread Bible

1 cup warm water (105 to 115)
2 teaspoons active dry yeast
¼ teaspoon sugar or honey
2 ½ to 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
(for wheat crust, sub ½ cup whole wheat flour and ¼ cup wheat bran for ¾ cup of the flour)
2 to 6 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as oregano, basil, rosemary, and/or parsley (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
½ teaspoon salt
Cornmeal or semolina, for sprinkling (optional)
Pizza sauce and toppings of your choice

1. Measure the 1 cup of water in a 2-cup measuring cup.  Sprinkle the yeast, sugar, and 1 tablespoon of flour over the surface of the water and stir with a fork (which mimics a small whisk and helps break up the flour) until dissolved.  Let stand at room temperature until foamy, about 10-15 minutes.

2. Mix the dough.

To Mix By Hand:  In a large bowl, combine the oil, salt, 1 cup of the flour, the herbs (if using) and the yeast mixture.  Whisk hard until smooth, about 3 minutes.  Add the remaining flour, ½ cup at a time, stirring with a wooden spoon until a soft, sticky dough that just clears the side of the dough is formed.

To Mix with a Food Processor: Place 2 ½ cups of the flour, salt, and herbs (if using) in the work bowl of a food processor fitted with a metal blade.  Add the oil to the yeast mixture and, with the machine running, pour this mixture through the feed tube.  Process until a ball is formed, about 30 seconds.

To Mix with a Stand Mixer: In the work bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the salt, 1 cup flour, and the herbs (if using).  Pour in the yeast mixture and stir on low to combine.  Add the olive oil.  Beat for 2 minutes, adding the remaining flour, ½ cup at a time, until a dough that just clears the side of the dough is formed.

3. Knead the dough.

To Knead by Hand: Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead to form a springy ball (about three minutes), dusting with flour one tablespoon at a time to prevent sticking.  (If you use the food processor to mix the dough, you can knead it by hand briefly, but I have actually skipped the kneading and gotten great results.)

To Knead by Machine: Switch from the paddle to the dough hook and knead for two to three minutes, until the dough is smooth and springy.  If you press into the dough with your finger, It should hold the indentation.

4. Form the dough into a flattened ball and place into a large bowl greased with olive oil.  Turn it once so that the top is coated with oil, and cover with plastic wrap.  Let rise at room temperature until tripled in bulk, about 1 ½ hours.  Prepare your toppings and set them aside.

5. Preheat the oven or the grill.  20 minutes before baking, preheat the oven to 500.  (Yes, you read that right.  It needs to be smokin’ hot.)  If you’re planning to grill the pizza, fire up the grill to high heat.

6.  Shape the crust by either rolling it with a pin, stretching it by hand*, or pressing it with your fingers.  If you’re planning to grill, you’ll want a thin crust for it to be able to cook through without charring it beyond recognition.  Transfer the crust to the pan of your choice and immediately brush with sauce or olive oil.  Assemble the toppings on the dough. (Aren’t you glad you prepped them back in step 4?)

7.  Cook the pizza.

In the Oven: Bake the pizza until the dough is crisp, the topping is hot, and the cheese is melted.  This can take anywhere from 8 to 15 minutes, depending on your pan, the thickness of your crust, and what toppings you choose.  Check the bottom to make sure it’s browned, then transfer to a cutting board and cut into serving pieces with a pizza wheel or serrated bread knife.

On the Grill: Brush one side with olive oil and grill, oil side down, over high heat, until the crust is crisped and releases from the grate (2-3 minutes).  If you try to move the crust and it won’t budge, give it another minute – when it’s done, it’ll move.  Remove from the grill, flip over, and add sauce and toppings on the grilled side.  Return to the grill and cook until the cheese is melted, the sauce is hot, and the bottom is crispy (anywhere from 3 to 10 minutes).


* I have absolutely no idea how to stretch pizza dough by hand.  There are instructions in Beth’s book, but I honestly don’t see much value in learning this skill… if I’m missing out on something, I expect someone to fill me in!

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Bon Appétit Challenge: New Year’s Diet, I Bid Thee Adieu

In the name of all things grilled and cheesy and meaty and bready… wow.   I gained five pounds just looking at this cover.

Babs, seriously – it’s like you’re in cahoots with my husband.  Just look at that headline screaming “Meat & Potatoes”.  Subtle.

And I like how your food stylist tossed those token crumbs on the table, like s/he didn’t spent four hours setting up the shot.

So there it is, folks… project #2 of 12: Grilled Cheese and Short Rib Sandwiches with Pickled Caramelized Onions and Arugula.  Please join me, why don’t you?  Can we really go wrong here?

From the sourcing angle, it shouldn’t be much of a challenge.  I have sherry left from the New Year’s Eve she-crab soup.  I’m going to seek out the Petit Basque instead of the Monterey, just because I’ve never tried it before.  And logistically, there are a lot of “do ahead” instructions, which is always a welcome sight… especially if I’m going to be pickling AND caramelizing.

Stay tuned – it should be interesting!

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Look to the Cookie

Today we observe the birthday of the late Martin Luther King, Jr. – a man whose life, and death, changed the way we see the world.  By now, we all know his story, but today I think we should stop and consider how incredibly young he was when he did all these amazing things.

Martin Luther King, Jr. finished high school at fifteen, and college at nineteen.  He graduated from seminary at age 22, after being elected president of a mostly white senior class (even more remarkable when you consider that most of his classmates were likely older than him).  By age 25, he was pastor of a church and a member of the executive committee of the NAACP.  He finished his doctorate degree at age 26.

I’m not sure I remember what I was doing at age 26, but I can assure you that my house was never bombed and I wasn’t jailed for standing up for what I believe in, much less while trying to raise four kids.  At the age of 35, he was the youngest man to have received the Nobel Peace Prize, and he donated the prize money to further the civil rights cause he’d dedicated his life to.  He was assassinated in 1968, at age 39.

I am inspired not only by what he did, and his relative youth while doing it, but also by the sheer amount of work involved.  In the eleven-year period between 1957 and 1968, King traveled over six million miles and spoke over twenty-five hundred times.  Think about that.  That’s well over a half-million miles and 200 speeches per year. (And I grumble about my commute from the suburbs.)

Here’s what I really find interesting, though.  In just forty years since his death, the idea of a segregated society has become unimaginable.  My parents’ high school was segregated – one single solitary generation ago – and here we are today with a black president.  I would like to think that racism no longer exists, but heck, Harry Reid and Rod Blagojevich proved otherwise just this month. But while knuckleheads and their knuckleheaded thinking persist today, we’ve still come a looooong way as a society, and that’s just part of the legacy that MLK left behind.

Now for some honesty.  When I was considering what to write today, my thought process went something like this:

Read the rest of this entry »

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Lagniappe: Keeping Up with White Fluffy Icing

It’s easier than tracking those crazy Kardashians, I promise.

Many of you have mentioned to me that you have trouble remembering to check the site, and wish there were a better way to “keep up”.  I know how you feel.  I was once like you, and not that long ago.

My sis-in-law keeps a household blog, which is a really cool way to keep friends and family updated on the goings-on at their house, without sending mass emails with large photos attached.  About a year ago, I read one of her entries, and then emailed her to say that a) I thought the entry was great!, and b) I just read like three month’s worth of stuff, because I always forgot to check the site.  Is there a better way?, I asked.

That’s when she schooled me on RSS readers, and I immediately started using Google Reader to track not only her blog, but the several others I found interesting (along with quite a few nerd blogs for work).  It was like scanning the headlines of a news site, but the “news” was all the new content on sites I specified.  Cool!

So now that I’m on the other side of this blogging thing, I want to make things as easy as I can on you.  Here’s the lowdown on how to stay on the up-and-up with WFI:

1) Use your terrific brainpower to remember that I generally post new content every Monday night.  (Good luck with that one.)

2) Use an RSS Reader, like I mentioned above.  I chose Google’s offering because they already have their hooks in me with Gmail, and it’s a single sign-on, but there are several options out there – ask around and find one you like.

3) There’s a handy new box up there on the top right of the page that allows you to subscribe via e-mail.  Follow the simple steps, and it’ll send my entry to your inbox every time I post something new.

4) Facebook Option #1: If you’re a Facebook user, you can become a fan of the WFI page here.  I post a status update each time I make an entry.

5) Facebook Option #2: If you’re a Facebook user, but don’t check it often and don’t want to miss out, you can subscribe to WFI’s status updates via text message to your phone.  Just go to the WFI page, become a fan, and then choose “Subscribe via SMS” under the photo.  (You must have your phone set up to do this.  Go to Settings > Account Settings > Mobile to get started.)  And yes, you can subscribe via text to any of your FB friends, which is yet another reason to only be-friend folks you actually know…

6) Twitter.  Okay, so I’ve been neglecting the whole Twitter thing.  In theory, I tweet every time I make a new entry, but as of now, all three (count ‘em, three!) of my followers on Twitter are also on Facebook.  I’m sure there are folks residing in TwitterNation that aren’t citizens of FBNation – I just haven’t encountered them yet.  Follow me here, and I’ll do a better job of tweeting, puddy tat.

So there you have it, folks – not one, not two, but SIX ways to stay current with WFI.  For someone who knows next to nothing about the technical side of this blogging thing, I’m gonna go ahead and say that’s not too shabby.

Bon Appétit Challenge: Spaghetti and Meatballs All’Amatriciana

Those of you who know me know that I’m am hyper-analytical.  It’s a blessing and a curse.  I just finished writing this piece, and it’s entirely too long and entirely too detailed.  For that, I apologize.  It’s just that there’s so much to say about this recipe… a classic with more than a couple of twists.

When the meatball mixture came together, the aroma made me think that I would soon be posting a notice in my kitchen that read, “Know all men by these presents: Henceforth, from this kitchen, all meatballs shall include bacon.  Thanks, Management”.  Well, I can’t post that notice – at least not yet.  But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Let’s begin with a rundown of the ingredients, shall we?  There were three that immediately stood out: uncured applewood-smoked bacon was the biggie, then the parenthetically noted preference for San Marzano tomatoes, and marjoram instead of oregano.  This is the kind of thing that, as a lifelong cook and enthusiastic BA reader, will make me take interest in a recipe and consider actually cooking it.  (If I cooked everything that I raised my eyebrows at, I wouldn’t have time for my day job, and therefore could not afford groceries.)

Read the rest of this entry »

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Lagniappe: Coming Soon on WFI…

Greetings, all (four of you)!  I wanted to let you in on a few things I’m kicking around for future posts. As always, feedback and suggestions are always appreciated…

  • First, I’ll be cooking the spaghetti and meatballs from the January cover of Bon Appétit  this week, and posting about it on Monday night, January 11.  I’m really excited about comparing notes with those of you who are joining me!
  • The 18th will be a light-hearted homage to the great Martin Luther King, Jr.  How will I tie in the food element, you ask?  Tune in and find out.
  • The 25th is open, but I’m thinking homemade pizza dough.  My buddy Ryan just hauled his brand-new Kitchen-Aid back to Texas A&M, and if I’d had a Kitchen-Aid in college (!!), I like to think I would have been making pizza.
  • On February 1st, we’ll be talking football food, in preparation for the SuperBowl.
  • On February 8th, we’ll tackle Valentine’s Day… specifically, “How To Impress a Date – Part II”.

Thoughts?

On the technical side, which I know next to nothing about, I’m working on adding a “thingy” to the sidebar that will allow folks to receive an email every time WFI is updated, as well as another “thingy” in the comment module that will allow you to make corrections to your own comments after you submit them.

And finally, WFI has a new friend that I absolutely must tell you about.  Her name is Shirley, and she’s undertaking a project to compile, test, and publish her mother’s recipes in a cookbook, in time to give it as a 2010 Christmas gift.  Pretty cool, right?  She’s blogging about it here: www.amotherscookbook.blogspot.com.  This is something I’ve been thinking about doing with my own mother’s recipe collection, so I’m interested to follow along and see how it goes.  Check it out when you have a second!

Quiche! Or, How To Impress a Date – Part I

I made this quiche a few weeks ago, with leftover ham from Thanksgiving (and grated cheddar on top).

Remember how your mother taught you that “you never get a second chance to make a first impression” ?  Well, I suppose that’s technically true.  But personally, I think first impressions are a little over-hyped.  (Probably because I’ve botched more than a few.)

Take my friend Meredith.  She frequently tells the story of her husband’s first impression of her, back in college: a big-haired girl with a lot of Dallitude (it didn’t help that he’s a native Houstonian).   Since I gave it away that they’re married now, you already get the point: he obviously got past that first impression.

Now let me tell you about my first impression of Thomas, Meredith’s husband.  I knew him only as “that guy Meredith sometimes hangs out with”, until I talked to her one day after a date.  I asked how it went, and she said it was terrific, because among other things, he cooked her dinner.  Whoa.  (Remember, we were barely out of high school at the time.  Virtually babies!)  Then, of course, I asked what this fraternity guy fed her, imagining nachos or other tail-gating fodder.

The answer: Quiche Lorraine.

My brow furrowed.  My jaw dropped.  Excuse me?

At 18, I barely knew what quiche was, and I certainly didn’t know what the Lorraine part meant.  So what makes a quiche a Quiche Lorraine?, I asked.  Meredith’s reply: I have no idea, but it sure was yummy.  Dude can cook.

So she did what any clear-thinking female would do in that situation: she snagged him.

I still remember that conversation, all these years later.  It obviously impressed me, and I wasn’t even on the date.  (Maybe the title of this post should be “How To Impress a Date and Their Friends, Too”.)

Since then, I’ve come to love quiche and its myriad variations.  And Thomas, being the smart guy he is, already knew something that I’ve since caught on to: quiche is great for entertaining.

Why?  Well, I thought you’d never ask.

1) It’s a crowd-pleaser, for starters, since it incorporates flavors that most everyone enjoys (eggs, cream, pie crust, and whatever you want to toss in).

2) It sounds (and tastes) elegant.

3) It’s simple to prepare: a store-bought pie crust works just fine – beyond fine, actually.  So if you can make scrambled eggs, you can make quiche.

4) It’s easy on the host(ess).  The components can be made in advance, so that all you have to do is pour the filling into the crust and slide it into the oven once your guests arrive.  Quiche is a traditional choice for brunch, but it works well for dinner too, especially with a small side salad and a glass of wine. And it serves well warm, room temperature, or even cold.  Easy, right?  Right.

By the way, I finally got around to looking up what the Lorraine part of the name means.  Lorraine is a region of northeast France, near Germany, where the dish originated (reportedly in the 16th or 17th century).  Originally, quiche filling consisted only of eggs, cream, and bacon – this is quiche Lorraine.  Somewhere along the way, a smart French cook realized that cheese makes everything better, so it’s the norm to see quiche Lorraine that includes Gruyere cheese.

Even though Quiche Lorraine is the original and most common variation, the ways to tailor quiche to your own taste are limited only by your imagination.  Common additions to the egg and cream base are chopped cooked meat (usually ham or bacon), vegetables (broccoli, mushrooms, and shallots are popular), and whatever cheese your heart desires.  As I type this, I am imagining slices of Brie arranged on the crust before pouring in the filling…

So the next time you want to impress someone special, invite them over for quiche.  But don’t cook this for just anyone – they might decide that you’re their future spouse.

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Below is a basic Quiche Lorraine.  In addition to varying the additions to the custard, consider playing with the cream-to-milk ratio to adjust the richness to your taste.


One pie crust (homemade or store-bought)
1 egg yolk, beaten
6 ounces sliced bacon, coarsely chopped
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
¾ cup cream
¾ cup whole milk
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon black pepper

Arrange the crust into a 10-inch tart pan (with removable bottom), shape the rim of the crust, and pre-bake using using weights or an identical sized pan nested into the crust, using a layer of aluminum foil as a liner between the crust and the weights. (If you’re using a store-bought crust, the package will include simple directions for this. If you’re using a homemade crust, I assume you’ve done this before!)

Brush the baked shell with the beaten egg yolk (this creates a seal between the crust and the filling, to prevent the crust from getting soggy).

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Cook the bacon in a skillet over medium heat, until the bacon is done but not yet crisp. Drain on paper towels, then arrange on the bottom of the pre-baked pie shell.

Beat the remaining ingredients together, then pour into the prepared pie shell. Bake until the filling is browned and set, about 30 minutes.  Then remove the bottom of the pan, cut into wedges, and wait for the marriage proposals to start rolling in…

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Lagniappe: More Tips on Casual Entertaining

A few weeks ago, I wrote about a few tips that I’d learned the hard way about entertaining, which is something I fantasize about doing well and struggle with every time I undertake it.

I saw this article today on the same topic, and thought it made a few really good points, so I thought I’d share it with you: http://www.doublex.com/section/life/tuesday-night-dinner-party-16-key-lessons-learned-slapdash-entertainment?page=0,0.  I took a fair amount of pride in the fact that lesson #7 is something I’ve already learned: embrace room temperature!

I realize that the holiday party season is behind us, but that’s another point the article makes: don’t wait for an occasion to have people over and catch up with friends.  Life is entirely too short.

p.s., New Year’s Glutton Eve did not disappoint!  We had oysters two ways (on the half-shell and steamed), he-crab soup (vs. she-crab, because I could not procure crab roe on short notice) with johnnycakes, red rice and fried green tomatoes with spicy mayo, and shrimp and grits.  The duo of desserts was no less impressive: the apricot tea ring turned out, despite my embarrassing lack of practice, and the orange mousse was outstanding.  I had some of Carole’s chocolate mousse at the beach house, but never the orange, and was pleasantly surprised to discover that the orange version includes genoise cake and a not-small volume of Grand Marnier.  Heaven!

p.p.s., I should also mention the beverages.  We started out sipping Firefly, a sweet-tea flavored vodka that fit perfectly with the Lowcountry theme (yes, sweet tea like your granny used to make).  Dangerous stuff, because you’d swear you really were drinking your granny’s iced tea.  Then we moved on to La Sirena Moscato Azul, a delicious white wine with lots of floral notes.  Finally, we ended with a 1973 Bordeaux.  I told you they know their wine…!

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