Archive for August, 2010

Bon Appétit Challenge: Burgers and Pickles and Ketchup – Oh My!

Well, now… this is getting interesting.  Of the nine covers we’ve seen so far, this is the fourth cover that features beef (the others being spaghetti with meatballs, grilled cheese and short rib sandwiches, and those unforgettable porterhouses). 

And now, as you can see, the September cover features a burger as big as your face, in your face.  The similarities to the short rib sandwiches are noteably apparent: bread, beef, homemade pickles, and peppery greens.  But the initial reaction is completely opposite…. the short rib sandwich looked rather complicated to make, and turned out to be pretty straightforward. 

My first reaction to this burger was: Meh, a burger.  How hard can it be? 

And then I saw the recipe. These aren’t just any old burgers.  Holy miscellaneous cow parts, Batman!  Here’s the blurb about them on the BA Daily blog:

It took chef Tony Maws six months to create his ultimate burger. The chef-owner of Craigie on Main in Cambridge, Massachusetts, started with the patty. After tons of taste-testing, he got it right–rich and steak-like, with just enough fat to make it juicy and satisfying. The trick? A mix of brisket, short ribs, and hanger steak combined with bone marrow and suet (beef fat). To tie it all together, he added a little miso. Just a touch really cranks up the umami (savoriness). He finished it off with spiced ketchup and a few vinegary pickles–and piled everything on a house-made bun. This fine-tuned burger has become one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes. We predict it will be a hit at your house, too.

Yes, you read correctly: bone marrow, suet, and three kinds of beef.  Plus homemade pickles, spiced ketchup, and fresh baked sesame seed buns.  Whew! 

And actually, I already made these burgers last weekend.  I committed to our friends Scott and Caryn weeks ago that come what may, I’d cook whatever they slapped on the September cover.  I’ll wait and tell you all the details in my full post, but the shopping was the challenge… you should have seen the looks I got when I asked for bone marrow at the meat counter.  Classic.

More soon!

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The Farmer’s Market Scene

It may not be readily apparent, but I am a ruthless self-editor. I’m not talking about typos and punctuation, because I do miss those occasionally, much to my chagrin.  I’m talking about leaving barrels of stuff out, when it doesn’t move the story along or support my point.  And the gut-wrenching part is that sometimes the cuttings are pretty good… they’re funny or accurate or interesting, and it’s tempting to leave them in. 

I’m telling you this to fess up to what I didn’t write about from the beach house. I didn’t tell you that Jamie’s grandparents were there for a few days, or how I had the most delightful conversations with each of them, or how it made me ache for my own grandparents, who have all been gone for several years now.

I didn’t tell you about the official unoffical cocktail of the beach house, which is Mount Gay and tonic with a lime, or how it earned such a lofty title, or how everyone agrees on the Mount Gay, but no one agrees on the specific brand of tonic water, and the ensuing debate spawned a blind tonic tasting in the house, with shocking Jerry Springer-like drama.

And there’s an embarrassing amount of food (and wine) I didn’t cover. I didn’t tell you about how, at Marc’s suggestion, I learned to steam crab legs in the microwave, à la Alton Brown. I didn’t tell you about Paul’s balsamic glazed salmon which was so good my eyes rolled back in my head, or the summer pudding I made for dessert, or that the Domaine Serene that Paul served convinced me that Oregonian Pinot Noir is my new favorite default wine preference, because it seems to go with everything, even seafood, and is just as delicious on its own. And finally, I didn’t tell you about the portobello risotto Paul made, and the genius of cooking the mushrooms separately, so that their black ink doesn’t tinge the golden loveliness of the rice, and how if this flexitarian had fewer manners, she might have grabbed the pot and licked it clean, right there in front of everyone.

So if editing is so important, why am I pointing all this out? Ah, because there were a lot of folks at the beach house, people whose opinion I care about, and if I were one of them, I’d be wondering where the heck all that other material went. So, I apologize. It was too much inspiration for my little weekly blog. I had to make some judgement calls. Not everyone gets a soccer trophy, you know.

And now that I’ve made my confession, I can move on. Thank you for indulging me.

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After experiencing the amazing produce in Alabama, I was inspired to come home and give the Houston farmer’s market scene another look. The last time I did was a several years ago, and truth be told, it was pretty sad. Houston is an industrial city, I told myself… it’s not artsy or passionate or even all that opinionated. I was making excuses for the town I loved dearly. It’s just not a foodie type of place, I told myself, and that’s okay.

I am happy to report that all that has changed. I have visited three farmer’s markets since being home, and each has something unique to offer. Check it out:

Highland Village Farmers’ Market. From what Mickey, the affable fellow who runs the market, tells me, last year the owner of the Highland Village shopping center built the structure here specifically for a new farmer’s market, which provides shade and includes giant high-powered fans that keep the place bearable during the hot summer months. The market is very small, which can either be a strength or a drawback, depending on how you see it. The small size allowed me strike up a conversation with pretty much each vendor, and it turns out that this is group of really cool people.

I’ve only been once, but my impression is that this is a place to find very high-quality ingredients you probably can’t find elsewhere. For example, Bryan Farms was there, and their free-range organic chickens appear on the menus of some of the best high-end restaurants in town, by name. I was curious to see how much difference a high-quality ingredient could actually make (how much yum belongs to the bird, and how much to the chef?) –  so I purchased a three-pounder, butterflied it, brushed it with olive oil, sprinkled it with salt and pepper and broiled it until the skin was brown and crispy.  It was divine. Even with such sparse seasonings, the meat sang with delicate flavor. Needless to say, I will definitely be going back for more.

Other vendors I enjoyed speaking with were Blue Heron Farm, Cloud Stone Garden, and Queen Bee Marshmallows. These are all the kind of people that you’d want to sit and have a cup of coffee with. I was interested in how they grew and/or made their wares, and they were interested in what I was planning to do with them. Sharon from Queen Bee even shared that she serves her marshmallows in martini glasses as a simple and elegant way to end a meal. Her husband doesn’t really need dessert, she said, he just wants “a little closure”.  How can you not love that?  In addition to being the perfect dessert when you don’t feel like firing up the oven, I’m headed back for more in the fall/winter, for killer s’mores and an honorable way to top a real cup of cocoa.

The Boy had a great time chugging lemonade and dancing to the music of Pete Simple while on the resulting sugar high. In fact, he loved the band so much that he would pitch a wall-eyed fit when they finished each song, demanding “Morrrrrre music!!”

Escalante’s was also on site with made-to-order breakfast tacos, but subscribing to the “never shop while hungry” philosophy, I’d already had breakfast and didn’t partake.  Next time…!

Hours: 9am – 1pm, every Saturday, rain or shine

Location: 2720 Suffolk Drive, Houston, TX

Vibe: Reserved-but-friendly artisans with high-end wares.

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Midtown Farmers’ Market at t’afia. This little gem of an experience happens in and around Monica Pope’s restaurant, t’afia. (In case you didn’t know, Monica is pretty well-known nationally, and recently got completely ripped off by Marcus Samuelsson on Top Chef Masters, in my humble opinion.)  When walking around, one gets a feeling that most of the patrons are regulars, and there’s a strong sense of community here – almost like the restaurant, vendors, and clientele are all one big happy family.

Lots of people made a point to say hello to us, and everyone lavished attention on The Boy, encouraging me to let him run around and play. In doing so, I didn’t have as much time to chat up the vendors, but they all seemed friendly, and I’d love to go back and do a little networking. 

I picked up some organic wild blueberries, which I made gelato with, as well as some garden tomatoes, homemade ciabatta, and a lovely Havarti from Houston Dairymaids.

Chef Pope also gives free cooking classes, which is very cool if you don’t have a vivacious toddler in tow.  And you can also sit down for a hot breakfast at t’afia, which is another thing I’ll do next time.

Hours: 8am – 12noon, every Saturday, rain or shine

Location: 3701 Travis, Houston, TX

Vibe: Outgoing, socially conscious folks with restaurant-quality ingredients.

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Urban Harvest on Eastside. This is a much larger and more traditional farmers’ market, with a whole lot more veggies and a whole lot less chatting. If you’re looking for variety or bargains, and not necessarily new friends, this is your place. The other two markets are more boutique-ish, having perhaps one or two vendors with tomatoes or peaches, for example, whereas Eastside might have half a dozen to choose from.

With the variety and low prices come the annoyances, though – like the overly aggressive shoppers who cut in line or want to taste one of everything before they buy something… or even worse, the overly aggressive vendors who are either too pushy with their products or preach condescendingly about how to cook/store/tote your purchases. Yes, I have eaten a peach before, and yes, I do know when they’re ripe. Thank you. (Eye roll.)

There’s music here, too, although whomever was playing the morning I was there was, I must say, forgettable. But the guys at Pete Simple told me they play here on occasion, which would definitely brighten up the scene.

Hours: 8am – 12noon, every Saturday, rain or shine

Location: parking lot behind 3000 Richmond, Houston, TX

Vibe: Early bird gets the worm. / Every man for himself. / May the force be with you.

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In addition to the three farmers’ markets I tried, I simply can’t not mention my ever-dependable…

Froberg’s Vegetable and Fruit Farm. This is in Alvin, not Houston, but it’s a place I’ve shopped for years with my family and have never been disappointed. The offerings are a combination of wholesale produce and stuff they’ve grown themselves, and the format is an open-air grocery store. They also sell fried pies and plants (both vegetables and flowers), and in the spring, you can pick your own strawberries. A quaint, throw-back, family-run type of place that’s well worth the side trip to get to.

Hours: 9am – 6pm, 7 days a week, excluding holidays.

Location: 11875 County Road 190, Alvin, TX

Vibe: Old school mom-and-pop store, where everybody would know your name, except they’re too busy taking money from the good city folk.

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All in all, I was impressed, and happy to see that within just these few options, there’s a little something for everyone.

Readers, which farms and markets do you enjoy? Is Caninos on Airline still there? Have I missed any others? I know there are berry farms north of Houston that I’ve yet to try – which are your favorites?

No Love for Eat Pray Love

As many of you know, I’m a thousand times more likely to read five reviews of a film than actually see it in the theater.  But somehow I managed to dodge all the coverage of Eat Pray Love and sneak off to see it with my friend Shana on its opening night.

First, the good news:  The cinematography was beautiful, Julia Roberts played a very convincing Liz, and Javier Bardem was y-u-m-m-y.

But somehow the adaptation process turned an insightful, thoroughly inspiring, well-told story into an overly sweet, non-sensical mash up of movie clips.  It was like a rock skipping over water, hitting the plot at various points, but not really connecting the dots.

Examples: While Julia Roberts did a great job of portraying the actual flip out, the viewer is given no insight on why Liz feels she must suddenly end her marriage.  The animal magnetism of the rebound boyfriend did not translate at all (James Franco?  Really?), and the deep well-reasoned argument that Liz provides in the book for taking the year off is nowhere to be found.  And that’s all before she ever even sets foot in Italy. 

The India part of the movie dragged out a bit, and the Bali part came dangerously close to being a stand-alone romantic comedy (note: not a compliment).

To do a book like this justice, it should have been made into a trilogy, allowing time to really explore the nuances each journey, and more importantly, how they all fit together.  Three movies may sound like overkill, but it’s a powerful story with universal appeal, and if done correctly, it would have worked (think Jason Bourne and Frodo Baggins).

There was a trilogy’s worth of hype, too.  Lonely Planet created an EPL travel guide, Fresh has a line of perfumes and scented candles inspired by Liz, and if you google “eat pray love hotel package”, you’ll see that hotels across the country are doing EPL-themed events all over the country.  When people unconnected to a film (or product, or anything) start doing your advertising for you, you know you’ve got some serious brand awareness.  What a waste! 

And now if you’ll excuse me, I have some film reviews to read…

Beach House: An Addendum

As one of our days at the beach house was winding down this year, I had a little time to myself.  Matt was in charge of bathing and feeding The Boy that evening, so I had the opportunity to take a leisurely shower and dress for dinner.

I trotted up to our room, dropped our beach bag by the door… and was suddenly struck with the instinct and desire to call Mom.

Maybe it was the fact that we were staying in the same exact room as last year.  And it was the exact right time of day, when the sunlight is deep and the shadows are long - just like it was that evening a year ago, when I knew it was a good time to call and catch my parents before they sat down to eat.

The phone call I’m remembering would have been my second one to Mom for that trip.  During the first, to let her and Dad know that we’d arrived safely, I learned that she had a partially detached retina in one eye, and it would require immediate surgery.  A random symptom of getting older, she said, unrelated to the cancer.  These things happen, apparently.

Of all things, and of all times… eye surgery.  After so many other hospitalizations.  And the radiation treatments.  And the cancer drugs with their horrible side effects.  Hey, she said, I’m just glad they can fix it.  For the millionth time, I wondered if I was actually a source of support for her, or if I was a voice of weakness, trying to drag her down.  Now, later, I can see that she was teaching me her final lessons on courage.

I wanted to go home, but this was a minor procedure, and she didn’t want to be the reason our vacation was canceled.  So the next day, the one with the long rays and longer shadows, I slipped out on the back porch to call and see how the surgery had gone.

In medical terms, it had gone well.  Were they able to manage your pain?, I asked.  For my eye, yes, she said.  But sitting in the exam chair for that long… well, you know…

Yes, I knew.  I knew that the cancer was eating at her bones, and that just sitting was excruciating for her.  Tears started streaming down my cheeks.  I hoped that no one came out on the porch.  The sun was starting to set over the water: a beautiful display of reds and oranges, and its mirror image.

But it was worth it, she said, because I had the chance to talk to one of the nurses for a good while.

She told me about how one of the nurses had been particularly attentive, knowing her condition and trying her best to make Mom comfortable.  Nurses can easily tell flint-faced suffering from garden variety wimpery, you know – but Mom was not only not complaining, she was pleasant.

How can you stay so calm?, the nurse finally wanted to know.  I know you’re hurting.  I have perfectly healthy patients who whine the whole time…

That’s easy, Mom told her.  My suffering is for a purpose.  I’ve given my whole life to Christ, the good and the bad, the pleasure and the pain, and that brings me peace.  And I always carry this small blue blanket with me – it’s a prayer blanket from a friend, which reminds me how many people are praying for me, and that brings me strength.

You know I’m not much of an evangelist, Mom told me, but the nurse cried as we said our goodbyes.  I hope I was able to touch her somehow. 

A boat went by, cutting a wake through the orange.

I swallowed hard through my tears, told Mom how proud I was of her, and reminded her of St. Francis of Assisi’s famous quote: “Preach the Gospel at all times, and when necessary, use words.”  It was her kindness and strength that did the talking.

Friends, I’ve told you before that instead of feeling sorry for herself, Mom transcended her suffering to help others, and this is just one example of what I was talking about.  It wasn’t even my fight, but I was acting like a child, throwing tantrums about things I didn’t understand and certainly couldn’t control.  She could have easily done the same, and been justified in many ways; instead, she used those challenges as opportunities.

This year, after my flashback to that phone call, I continued my original plan to take a long shower - and even though I couldn’t call her, Mom spoke to me anyway.  This is kind of hard to explain, but sometimes I medidate to seek her out, and sometimes I have these spontaneous visions – sort of like she’s meditating on me.  The closest thing I can compare it to is a daydream, but that doesn’t quite do it justice.

Anyway, I was in the shower, thinking of that sunset conversation from a year before, and letting the water mask my tears.  And then I saw her in my mind.  She was standing at the back of a large boat, which was setting sail from the end of an impossibly long pier.  She had her same body, battered and bruised, using the railing for support to stand.  As the boat pulled away, she was waving and smiling that be-strong-for-me-now smile that moms have during difficult goodbyes, with tears of sadness and joy streaming down her cheeks.

I was standing at the pier, not wanting her to go, desperate to grab a rope and hold the boat back, or, at the very least, jump over the widening gap and go with her.  Which I knew was ridiculous and impossible, but I had to do something.

Except that I couldn’t.  I was holding my son in my left arm, and holding my dad’s left hand with my right.  Matt was standing on the other side of The Boy, with his strong arm around both of us.  I couldn’t break away from all that and still make a fool of myself trying to stop the boat.  I had no choice but to watch her go.  I had responsibilities, back on the pier.  Here on dry land.  All I could do was yell, Thank you!  I love you!  Pray for me! … until she was gone from view.

For the long months of Mom’s battle, I struggled with balancing my responsibilities on the pier (mother, wife, daughter) with my desire to help Mom comfortably board the boat, or more honestly, keep the boat from sailing away.  I spent a lot of energy being upset about the terrible timing of it all – my baby boy and my mom needed me most at exactly the same time.  I felt like I wasn’t completely “there” for either of them.

But now I see that they were “there” for me.  If I hadn’t been holding my son on that dock, I most assuredly would have broken away from Matt and Dad and tried to jump, or grab, or claw, or God only knows what.  And I would have failed.  And I would have struggled all the more.

But, you see, my son’s infancy distracted me from a complete freak-out about what Mom was going through.  And Mom kept me distracted enough from going over the new-mom deep end, which I actually made a decent effort at doing anyway.

All this time, I thought they needed me.

As it turns out, I was the needy one.

“After you have suffered for a little while, the God of all grace, who called you to his eternal glory in Christ, will Himself perfect, confirm, strengthen, and establish you.”  -1 Peter 5:10

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Beach House! Part III: Sweet Endings

By now you know how great the beach house is, but let me just hit it home for you. Remember the photo from the first beach house post, where the guys are tasting wine? Well, that’s not just any wine, friends, that’s 1975 Bordeaux. Actually, two 1975 Bordeaux’s – one from the Right Bank and one from the Left Bank. You know, just so we can compare. No biggie. (!)

Of course I want to know about the Right Bank and Left Bank, so Paul starts explaining. Okay, he says, planting his feet on the floor, I’m standing near the west coast of France, facing the Atlantic. The town of Bordeaux is kind of behind me, over to the left (he waves his left hand toward seven o’clock)… Paris and London are both way over there (he waves his right hand toward four o’clock), and I’m straddling a river, the Gironde. My right foot is on the Right Bank and my left foot’s on the Left Bank. Now, if we knew anything about what was happening on either sides of the river in 1975, we might have a clue about the differences in taste…

Seriously, who goes to coastal Alabama to sample flights of vintage Bordeaux?! I pinch myself.

And that’s really not even the coolest part. The coolest part is why Paul specifically plucked out 1975 from his collection.

Matt happened to have a birthday while we were there, and Jamie must have sussed out exactly which birthday it was and passed the information along to Paul. Paul, in turn, made sure that he had the vintage on hand that corresponds with the year of Matt’s birth. I mean, the pimiento cheese was great and all, but this guy is awesome.

That night, Paul had one of my favorite lines from the whole trip: Think about it, Matt, you’ve been out walking around for 35 years, learning and growing, or whatever the heck you’ve been up to… and this wine has been sitting in this bottle that whole time, waiting for us to open it.

That was actually July 4th, and the wine was a nice accompaniment to the rib-eyes Marc had seared on the grill and the salad that Jamie had made. And as delicious as all that was, no one could keep their eyes off of the stove, where our dessert was cooling from the oven.

Heavens to Betsy, Marc had made his peach pie.

To my knowledge, this is the only recipe I’ve seen Marc actually follow. Not that it doesn’t happen, I’ve just never seen it. His usual modus operandi is to shoot from the hip, but if he’s looking for guidance and/or inspiration on something specific, he might skim a few recipes a couple of days in advance, and then fall right back into Pistol Pete mode.

It’s really pretty inspiring, because, as I’ve mentioned, I cook like a baker, and Marc cooks more like a chef. In fact, it was by cooking with Marc that I realized that I had too often let a cookbook lead me around by the nose. I read a Food & Wine article years ago that addressed this very topic, analogizing recipes to a GPS system in your car: If you always just turn when it tells you, you never really pay attention to where you’re going, and consequently, never really get to know the place.

Marc has no intentions of inspiring me, mind you, and I’m sure he’s kind of baffled while reading this (what’s up, bro?). But hanging out with him in the kitchen is kind of like being a kid on a bike with training wheels, and a bigger kid comes pedaling along, points to the extra wheels and says, You know those come off, don’t you? And the little kid blushes and says, Sure I do!, and then races home to use Dad’s wrench set without permission, trying like crazy to get the suddenly-embarrassing wheels off.

So the first time Mr. BMX got out a homemade cookbook, turned to a specific page, and (gasp!) followed a recipe, it obviously got my attention. The recipe is below, but the preface that Carole, Marc’s mother, wrote is just as interesting:

“Well, I guess I’ll let you in on the secret recipe. Actually our son Marc found it in Joy of Cooking when he was about 13 and decided my peach pie wasn’t very good so he made this one. We call it […] Marc’s Peach Pie.”

This little paragraph is so delicious that I don’t even know where to start. First of all, he told his mama straight up that her pie weren’t no good. Second, he actually backed up his smack and replaced the inadequate pie recipe. Third, age thirteen! I must say that if The Boy insulted my pie this way, I’d probably brag about it, too.

As for the pie itself… well. I’m personally more of a cake person, so although I’ve never met a dessert I didn’t like, pie isn’t necessarily at the top of my list. But this is the best ding dang pie I’ve ever tasted. It might be in my list of top ten desserts of all time, actually. It’s that good.

What’s interesting, as Carole mentioned, is that this recipe is straight out of “The Joy”. Except, get this… it’s not in the all-new completely revised Joy of the late 90s. They left it on the cutting room floor, if you can believe that. When I got home and discovered that my version didn’t include this pie, it made me wonder what else those yahoos left out (Ethan Becker, I’m talking to you!), so I marched on over to my local Half Price Books and picked up an old Joy for a whopping three bucks. I’ll be interested to compare the two over the next few years, as the modern JOC is typically my first stop when investigating/contemplating/ruminating.

But, there’s one thing that The Joy recipe doesn’t have: the secret ingredient. Every legendary recipe has one, right? The secret is – are you ready? – peaches from Chilton County, Alabama.

I don’t know what makes Chilton County peaches so flavorful. I don’t know why they are so easy to peel (the skins pulls away at the slightest coaxing from sharp paring knife). And I certainly don’t know why they release from the pit so willingly, either. (Ever had a slippery tug-o-war between a slippery peach and its pit? Good times.)

Maybe they’ve been bred for perfection over countless generations, or maybe they’re simply God’s gift to Southern produce. I don’t really care. All I know is that these are the best peaches I’ve ever had, and before I tasted the pie, I actually thought it was a shame to defile them in such a way.

I was dead wrong.

If I close my eyes, I can put myself back there that night, rocking gently on the porch swing after dinner. Wine, salad, steak, and peach pie are all happily swimming in my belly. It’s dark-thirty by now, and the lights at the boat house are illuminating The Stars and Bars, which is snapping in the summer breeze. We have almost a full 180 degree view over the bay, which allows us to watch three different fireworks displays at once, gently popping in the distance, while a chorus of frogs in the marsh below bids us good night…

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Paul did me the favor of sending me the peach pie recipe exactly as it’s printed in Carole’s homemade binder:

Well, I guess I’ll let you in on the secret recipe.  Actually our son Marc found it in “Joy of Cooking” when he was about 13 and decided my peach pie wasn’t very good so he made this one.  We call it
 
Marc’s Peach Pie
The shell–straight from the grocery freezer–”Pet-Ritz” brand is what I usually use.
The filling–
Peaches to fill the shell,
     Mix about 3/4 cup of sugar(adjust based on  peaches–more if they’re not ripe or less if they are sweet)
     2 Tbsp. of flour;   
     1 beaten egg; and
     about 1/3-1/4 cup of melted butter
Pour over peaches and bake.
400 for about 15 minutes then down to 300 for 50 minutes 

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Beach House! Part II: The Groceries

According to Frank Stitt, this is Southern food. I will sooo take it.

I’m curious.  When you think of Alabama food, what comes to mind?

Southern classics, right? Fried chicken, stewed okra, black-eyed peas, grits, greens of every make and model… that kind of thing.

Or maybe you think of seafood. You know: shrimp, crab cakes, blackened catfish, hushpuppies.

That’s what I thought, too. And don’t get me wrong, all of those dishes are certainly over there — but I was completely unprepared for the produce. Good Lord, the produce.

On our first day at the house, I had just put The Boy down for his nap when I found Paul downstairs, simmering fresh corn on the stove. I wasn’t in the market for corn at that particular moment… In fact, as far as lunch was concerned, I’d already set my sights on Paul’s chicken salad, followed immediately by a nap of my own.

I was chewing my sandwich and contemplating the genius of olives in chicken salad when I overheard Marc tasting the corn:

(Munch, munch.) Wow. That’s sweet. (Munch.) Man, that’s the sweetest corn I’ve ever had.

I was tempted to try it, because if you know Marc, you know that hyperbole is not his thing. But my eyelids were drooping, and I was assured that we were having more corn with dinner, and besides, my eyelids… were… drooping…

The evening routine at the beach house generally involves getting the kids fed, bathed, and into bed – by hook or by crook – followed by cocktail hour while dinner is prepared. If we somehow manage to freshen up along the way, all the better. It’s ironic, you know: lunch is somehow just fine when mixed with sand, sunscreen, and salt water (not to mention giggles, floaties, and potty breaks), but for some reason, dinner tastes better after I’ve run through the shower and had a few moments to collect myself.

That first night, we had tuna sashimi with our cocktails, then sat down to pan-seared New England scallops, a beautiful Caprese salad, a bit of multi-grain bread, and, of course, the corn. Ahhh, that corn. Beautiful strands of pale yellow pearls, still warm from their brief dalliance in the stockpot. That first crispy bite was the best, when everything was new to the palate, and the sweetness was balanced by that distinctive corn flavor. Over time, the flavor gradually took a back seat and the sugar just kept coming, until, by the end of my typewriter impersonation, it was literally as sweet as candy. It was so good, it was stupid.

I asked Paul about the corn. It’s not Silver Queen, he said, it’s a different variety. I can’t quite recall the name, but it’s from a local farm.

How local is local?, I ask. B.J. Farms, near Elberta, he said. (Note to self: Find this corn.)

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A day or two later, Paul was on the deck downstairs, hacking off hunks of a watermelon and sharing it with the kids. Have some!, he said. It’s really good.

I’d better not, I answered. Watermelon is my singlular arch-enemy. After years of tasting, I can force it down if I must, but I really can’t stand the stuff.

I actually don’t like watermelon, either, said Paul, but this one is terrific. You have to try it. Have. To.

After assuring me that he wouldn’t be offended, I tasted a small piece. WOW. I had prepared myself for the gag reflex that was sure to follow, in which case I’d planned to take two quick steps and spit it over the edge of the pier (pah-TOO!), because hey, I’m just that classy… but instead, I asked for seconds. Let me repeat: I asked for more watermelon. As someone who consciously works on expanding her palate, this moment has its own chapter in my personal history.

I could go on and on about the produce… the farm fresh tomatoes, the strawberries, and in my next entry or two, I’m probably going to tell you more than you ever cared to know about Chilton County peaches. But I have to stop somewhere, and this is as good a place as any, because I still need to tell you about the cheese and ask you about the book I’d like to purchase…

Can you see the stripe of ash in the Perdido, on the top right?

It just so happens that there’s also a dairy farm in Elberta, which I remembered from last year. It’s called Sweet Home Farm, and I distinctly recall Paul serving their Perdido cheese all those months ago. Perdido is hard to forget, you see, because it has a dark vein of ash running through it. The first time I saw it, Paul saw me hesitate at the cheese board, mini-spreader-knife-thingy hovering in mid-air, brows furrowed. It’s ash, he said, like Morbier. I do believe that “Huh?” was my ever-intelligent reply. Turns out there’s a whole class of French cheeses made with ash in them, on them, around them, whatever. Crazy, right? The things you learn on summer vacation.

Well, the cheese was delicious, of course, and I wanted more this year, of course. So one rainy afternoon, Matt, The Boy, and I set out for Elberta, in search of candy corn, miracle melon, and ashy cheese.

The nice folks at B.J.’s informed us that the variety of corn is called, fittingly, Devotion. The watermelon’s name is Sangria, which immediately resulted in a continuous loop of Jerry Jeff Walker songs in my head. And Sweet Home Farm was a delight — it was exactly the kind of picturesque place you would imagine a mom-and-pop dairy farm in small-town Alabama to be. I picked up some Peridido as well as some Bayside Blue, and it did not disappoint. What a way to shop for groceries!

Which brings me to the kooky book idea I have. When we travel with a group, I think it’s a blast to stay in a place with a real kitchen. Actually, that’s one of the many reasons I have enjoyed the beach house so much: the kitchen is way bigger and much better equipped than my own. But without Paul there, I would have had no idea that Joe Patti’s is the best seafood market on the Gulf Coast, or not to even bother with a supermarket other than Publix – not to mention B.J.’s and Sweet Home Farm.

Restaurant guides are a dime a dozen, but are there any travel books devoted to helping cooks find ingredients? I’m imagining a directory of local farms, markets, dairies, wineries, with write-ups on the highlights and specialties of each. If anyone knows of one, I’d sure like to buy a copy.  Anyone?

Anyone?

Bueller?

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Between this year and last, I’ve learned a lot about food at the beach house – including being introduced to Frank Stitt’s cookbook, Southern Table.  The farm fresh tomatoes we had there, along with all of us being seafood lovers, inspired me to make his tomato and crab towers. We enjoyed them so much that I’m hoping to make a pilgrimage to Stitt’s Highlands Bar and Grill one day.

Tomato and Crab Towers
From Frank Stitt’s Southern Table

3 large ripe tomatoes, cut into 1/3-inch slices
8 cherry or grape tomatoes, quartered
1 shallot, very finely sliced
1/2 cup Sherry vinaigrette
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 pound jumbo lump crabmeat, picked free of shells and cartilage
Grated zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons mayonnaise, such as Hellman’s or Best Foods
4 chives, finely sliced
6 basil leaves, thinly slivered
A large handful of micro-greens, watercress, mâche, or arugula, trimmed if necessary, washed and dried

You will need a total of 12 slices of tomato for the towers: 4 large ones for the bottom, 4 slightly smaller ones for the middle layer, and 4 slightly smaller ones for the top. Set these aside, and reserve the remaining slices for another use.

Combine the 12 tomato slices, cherry tomatoes, and the shallot in a bowl and toss with the vinaigrette and a pinch each of salt and pepper.

In another bowl, combine the crabmeat, lemon zest and juice, mayonnaise, chives, and basil, mixing with your fingers but being careful not to break up the larger lumps of crabmeat.

Arrange the 4 largest tomato slices on four plates. Top each with a dollop of crabmeat, spreading it with the back of a spoon to almost cover the tomato. Place 4 slightly smaller tomato slices on top and gently steady them so they are stable. Top with the remaining crabmeat and then with the last tomato slices. Scatter the cherry tomatoes around the towers. Toss the baby lettuces in the vinaigrette remaining in the tomato bowl and sprinkle them around the outside of the plates.

Ask a talented friend to set a gorgeous table. Add plated towers. Stand back admiringly, take a photograph, then dig in.

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