If I haven’t mentioned it before, I grew up in rural Texas, near the coast. When I say rural, I mean that it was a 15-minute drive to town, and by “town”, I mean a small bedroom community of 1500 people. There was literally one blinking stop light there. Now I think there might be two.
I envied the kids that lived in town, because they had a social life. They could ride their bikes to each other houses, scratch together a baseball game, or gaggle up and cause generic mayhem. Not us. The only kids my brother and I could visit without the benefit of motorized transportation were our three cousins, who lived a quarter of a mile down the road. We were experts at snaking our way through the barbed wire fence that bordered the pasture between us — we’d trod along amongst the cows, greeting them by name, petting the tame ones and dodging the “mean mamas”.
(Seeing as how only one of those three cousins was a girl, it’s no wonder that Leah and I wound up being the best of friends. But even if she hadn’t been my one and only option, she’d still be my one and only Leah. Awwwww.)
Anyway, when you live in the sticks, Halloween just isn’t all that exciting. Sure, we donned costumes and trick-or-treated, but it’s not the same when a) there are only about five houses within a reasonable radius, and b) you have to be driven between the stops. The allure was diminished, to say the least — yet another topic upon which those wimpy town kids (like Matt) had the upper hand.
So between the dimished allure and the lack of a major corresponding religious feast, it’s no wonder that I don’t have any long-standing rituals for Halloween. But I do love traditions, and now that I live in the suburbs and have a kiddo, it’s high time I adopted some.
Enter Ryan and Shana, aka The Neighborly Victims, who graciously invited us to participate in their Halloween tradition. Growing up, Ryan’s family always had chili for dinner on Halloween, which is perfect: it’s fall-ish, can be made ahead of time, and is easy to serve from the stove during an evening of hither and thither and yon. For dessert, they always had caramel apples. How autumnal can you get?! I was sold.
Shana and I agreed that they’d make the apples and we’d bring the chili. Which made me immediately realize that I still hadn’t really found a good authentic chili recipe. For a native Texan home cook, this is practically a crime.
I poked around in my usual cookbooks, finding little. And then I remembered a cookbook my mother had given me years ago: a rare coffee-table sized book called Texas the Beautiful. It was released in 1986, no doubt to commemorate the Lone Star State’s sesquicentennial, which, as you may recall, was a big honkin’ deal. In it, I found a truly authentic chili recipe: no onions, no beans, no tomatoes.
For those of you that have just drawn a weapon, please allow me to explain. Chili’s technical name is chili con carne, which translates to “chili with meat”. That’s basically it: chili (in the form of actual chiles, chili powder, or both) and meat. Along the way, someone added chopped onion as a garnish (complementary flavor, nice color contrast), and someone else had the brilliant idea to serve beans on the side (presumably to give at least the illusion of a rounded meal). The next thing you know, people started adding a farraginous assortment of other ingredients: tomatoes, corn, cheese, chocolate… the list goes on.
And I’m cool with that. So much so, in fact, that my favorite chili is actually a vegetarian one. (Again, I’m going to have to ask you to put the gun away. Please?)
I’m reminded of a conversation that Matt and I had over the summer. I’d made lemonade (because I had a bunch of leftover lemons, and that’s what we optimists do), and he was sampling it. When I asked how he liked it, he said that it was okay, but he really preferred “the normal stuff.” Which is…?, I asked. You know, the pink powder in the can, or whatever.
Do I need to tell you that I was aghast? Okay then: I was aghast. I don’t necessarily have anything against pink powder in a can, but for the sake of all that is holy and righteous, let’s not call it “the normal stuff”! Where’s my gun?
Before my blood pressure elevates any further, I’ll get back to chili. I thought that the “Real Texas Chili” from mom’s cookbook was pretty tasty, but being a flexitarian, I’m at a bit of a disadvantage when evaluating a dish that’s 90% meat. Thankfully, Andy, a true chili-head, dropped by just in time. And you know what? He said it’s the best he’s had in 30 years. Whoda thunkit?
So whether you get a hankering for chili over Halloween weekend, or you want to celebrate the Rangers’ appearance in the Series with a dish born in the Lone Star State, I’m giving you the bookends on the spectrum of possibilities. You can thank me later.
Boo! and Go Rangers!
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Obviously, one of the keys to making good chili is finding a chili powder you like. There are hundreds of options, and everyone has their preference — so if you haven’t already, flirt with a few before you head to the altar with one.
REAL TEXAS CHILI
(Adapted from Texas The Beautiful Cookbook)
3 pounds chuck or round steak
6 ounces beef suet (!), or hard beef fat (from your butcher)
3-4 cloves garlic, crushed through a press
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
4-6 tablespoons chili powder*
8 tablespoons masa harina (more for additional thickening, if necessary)
6 cups hot water
2 tablespoons vinegar (I used plain white)
2 teaspoons or 2 cubes beef bouillon (I used Knorr cubes)
Dried red chiles, chopped or crushed (optional, use sparingly)**
Remove gristle and most of the fat from the meat, cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Place suet or hard beef fat in a large skillet or heavy saucepan and render it. Discard the suet residue or rendered pieces of fat.
Saute meat in the hot fat until lightly browned. Add garlic, salt, pepper, and chili powder. Mix well and allow seasonings to permeate meat for a few minutes.
Sprinkle in masa harina and mix thoroughly. Add hot water, vinegar, bouillon and chiles. Lower heat, cover, and simmer until the meat is very tender. In fact, some of the meat should virtually dissolve into the chili. If the chili becomes dry while cooking, add a little water from time to time. Correct the seasonings, skim off some or all of the fat from the surface. Serves 6-8 chili-heads!
*I used 4 Tbsp of Central Market’s San Antonio chili powder and 1 Tbsp of McCormick’s chipotle chile powder, to ramp up the smoke factor.
**I used half of a large dried red pasilla, chopped, just to see what would happen.
FALSE ALARM VEGETABLE CHILI
(Found on marthastewart.com years ago.)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 green bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 red bell pepper, cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 large carrot , chopped medium
1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 pound dried lentils, rinsed
1/3 cup tomato paste
1 (15 oz) can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 (15 oz) can pinto beans, drained and rinsed
1 (28 oz) can stewed tomatoes
1/3 cup chili powder
4 teaspoons ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon crushed red-pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
In a large soup pot, heat olive oil over medium heat. Add onion, green and red peppers, carrot, jalapeño pepper, and garlic. Cook until the vegetables soften, about 5 minutes. Stir in 7 cups water, lentils, tomato paste, kidney beans, and pinto beans. Stir to blend, adding stewed tomatoes, chili powder, cumin, and crushed red-pepper flakes.
Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until lentils are tender, about 45 minutes. If the chili starts to dry out, add hot water as needed. Season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately. Serves 10 open-minded, artery-loving types.







