If you don’t mind, I’d like to begin by justifying my intimidation level for this little endeavor.
To psych myself up for attacking my first turkey, it seemed natural to consult my Williams-Sonoma Thanksgiving cookbook. Mistake Numero Uno, my friends. Here’s the intro to the chapter on main courses:
When cooking turkey, the centerpiece of every traditional Thanksgiving menu, achieving golden skin, juicy white meat, and well-cooked dark meat all at the same time qualifies as an art. The following recipes come to the aid of the cook, making cooking — and eating — the turkey the best thing that happens all day.
Really, Chuck (Williams)? Really? According to you, I’m supposed to artfully create the centerpiece of the most traditional of meals for my closest friends and family. And not only that, it’s supposed to be the best thing that happens all day. In my mind, this stops just shy of me wearing a dress and heels under my apron, with a ribbon in my hair.
And am I the only one that thinks the most superb turkey conceivable is a far cry from the best thing that ever happened to me? Pass the pie, brother.
This is when the bellyaching commenced. I don’t WANNA cook a turkey, I said, to no one in particular. Not even a Salt Roasted Turkey with Lemon and Oregano. Why did I DO this stupid challenge, anyway?, I asked. What if I screw it up?, I whined. Somebuddy call the wahhhhhh-mbulance.
And you know what the near-unanimous answer was to my dramatic neuroticisms? You can’t screw it up! It’ll be fine! You’ll do great! If I can do it, you can do it!
I almost started to believe them. Almost. And then Bon Appétit, the lovely, upstanding, respectable periodical that I’ve relied upon for years, ran a Thanksgiving bloopers contest. Share your Thanksgiving disaster stories with us and you can win an All-Clad roasting pan and rack! It was like a car accident: I couldn’t help but look at the stories of gravy explosions and birds being dropped into sudsy dishwater. Mistake Numero Dos, people. Now I’m officially freaked out. Freaked. Out.
(On the other hand, my now-certain epic failure suddenly had an upside: an All-Clad roasting pan and rack!)
I pressed on. For reasons still unknown, in true WFI fashion, I decided to attempt my inaugural bird on a weekend when Johanna was in town as our houseguest. Now, if you know me, you know that I don’t really do houseguests. It’s not for lack of want-to, you see, it’s just that I grew up with all my houseguest candidates living within a 30-mile radius. So, like the turkey, it’s a lack of practice more than anything else.
Did I mention that I also invited a new friend, Diana, to join us? Did I mention that she’s also a chef? Mistake Numero Tres: setting myself up with undue pressure. Pretty smooth, huh?
To the bird. I expected BA to call for an insanely happy, free-range, never-been-injected-with-anything bird… but they didn’t. So I grabbed a Butterball, the universal choice of the bourgeois, to really give the recipe a run for its money. And Butterball has that hotline, after all, which may just come in handy. We’ll see.
I managed to thaw the thing adequately, which was a chief concern going in. I also managed to do a good bit of the work in advance — namely, making the Ultimate Turkey Stock and cooking the stuffing ingredients the day before. So far, so good.
And then Sunday came. D-Day, if you will.
On the way home from church, I swung through the store for some side dish ingredients (fourth grocery trip of the weekend, but who’s counting?). Wisely, I foresaw the possibility of huge timing issues on my part, and grabbed some nuts and cheese for my diners to nibble on. I wasn’t sure how, but I felt certain I’d be keeping my guests waiting, and now at least they wouldn’t have growling tummies in the process.
It would turn out to be the best decision I made all day.
Upon returning home, I realized that despite reviewing the recipe – oh, I don’t know — FOURTEEN times, I managed to misread the cooking time. The recipe calls for roasting the bird in several 45 minute increments, and I glossed over a couple of those. My ETA is now officially off by 1.5 hours. Rookie mistake. (Cuatro, if you’re keeping score at home.) Huge.
Ding dong. Oh, Hi Diana! Where’d I put those cashews?
So later… hours later!… there were 45 minutes left on the clock. Time to insert the probe and start tracking internal temperatures. Diana and I were chatting in the kitchen, and she commented on how well-browned and nice looking the bird already is. Then I asked her to help me figure out where the “thickest part of the thigh” is, for thermometer placement, because the whole operation hinges on getting a good temperature read. We’re aiming for a final temp of 165.
She poked with the probe. 175 degrees. Wha? Maybe she hit a bone?, I suggested.
She poked again. 178 degrees. And again. 174 this time.
She checked the recipe, and looked at the oven. Have you been roasting at 375 the whole time?, she asked. My face fell — I immediately knew what the problem was. I’d cooked the stuffing earlier at the prescribed temperature of 375, and was in such a hurry to get started on the bird (because of my colossal timing problem), I failed to knock down the temperature to 350. I’d cooked it 25 degrees too hot the entire time.
I got insanely lucky: the turkey was fine. By divine providence, my poor recipe reading was inadvertently offset by my lack of attention to detail, and cooking it at the wrong temperature actually fixed my timing problem. (Not a strategy I would recommend, by the way.)
So. How’d it taste? Ummmm, like turkey.
Seriously, all that grinding and salting and rinsing and brushing did not conspire to create a life-changing dining experience. The skin was beautiful and delicious, thanks to the lemon oil, but the meat itself tasted like… every other (good) turkey I’ve ever eaten. I fully admit there’s a fair amount of bias here, since I’m not a huge meat eater. And I also fully admit that I could be spoiled by all the good cooks in my family, and an amazing turkey seems like no big deal. All that being said, I did achieve golden skin, juicy white meat, and well-cooked dark meat all at the same time… but I’m not sure it’s an art form when you accomplish something in spite of yourself.
The stuffing was tasty, my overcooking it a bit notwithstanding (what mistake number are we on?), but it was a little on the exotic side for several folks at the table. If you’re looking to shake things up a bit, I would definitely recommend this recipe, as it has a lot of complex flavors that work pretty well together. That being said, if you have a multi-generational recipe that you make every year, you might consider making it in addition to that, and not instead of. Similar to my take on the pie issue: you’re messing with people’s holidays, and there’s a line. You don’t want a revolt on your hands.
The Greek Inspired Fresh Oregano and Giblet Pan Gravy might actually have been my favorite of the four recipes involved: tons of flavor, and not much more work than “regular” gravy. Although the speck was pretty good in that stuffing. Tough call.
In total, I’d say that I’m really glad I faced my demons, but I’m also glad it’s over. Like every home cook, I dream of one day hosting Thanksgiving dinners like the ones you see in catalog photo spreads… a huge table beautifully set for a dozen, all the picture-perfect food coming out of the kitchen at the same time, Norman Rockwell quietly sketching the scene from his corner perch. I’ve got about twenty years before I can afford the set-up (that is, a house big enough to have a dining room big enough for a table big enough), and it’ll take me about that long to master cooking for that many people at once…
But I’ve taken the first step.


#1 by Laura on November 17, 2010 - 8:26 am
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I’d like full credit, by the way, for not using “speck-tacular” anywhere in this post…
#2 by Starr on November 17, 2010 - 10:59 am
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Beautiful turkey! Congrats on your bird and for conquering the demons.
#3 by Laura on November 17, 2010 - 8:19 pm
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Thank you, Starr! Are you in charge of the turkey next week?
#4 by Starr on November 23, 2010 - 3:08 pm
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Laura,
Yes, cooking for my folks and my husband’s mom. It’s our 4th year to do Thanksgiving (and this year with a much smaller crowd), so we’ve got it down by now. Lists are made, schedules written out, ingredients purchased. I’m ready!
#5 by Laura on November 23, 2010 - 6:51 pm
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Rock on, sister! Do you do the same menu every year, or do you like to mix it up a little?
#6 by Jess on November 17, 2010 - 11:31 am
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It looks wonderful, and I am glad that it all worked out, you had me wondering in the beginning, lol.
There is another BA recipe (from Nov. 99) for a honey brined turkey that will now forever be my go to bird, but… you can’t stuff it. Too salty. I suppose it is give and take.
#7 by Laura on November 17, 2010 - 8:21 pm
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Jess! I’m glad it worked out, too. Maybe next year I’ll be brave enough to prepare the turkey on the “big day”.
Honey brined sounds awesome… and I actually am a fan of cooking stuffing separately, so that might just be the next version I cook!
#8 by A Tiger In The Kitchen on November 18, 2010 - 10:39 am
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It’s a beautiful looking turkey! And it’s a good first step overall….congrats.
#9 by Laura on November 18, 2010 - 10:50 am
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Why, thank you! Perhaps next year I’ll have the nerve to cook a bird for the Big Day…
#10 by Catrina on November 23, 2010 - 1:31 pm
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Thanks for this post… I have to prepare Thanksgiving for my in-laws for the first time this year, and since receiving the November issue of BA have been trying to decide if I should try this turkey recipe or stick with the tried and true (if boring) bag and roast method… you’ve inspired a little more courage in me to be adventurous. My only question… where did you find the turkey wings for the stock? I can’t seem to find them in any of my local grocery stores. I figure it won’t be the end of the world if I don’t find them by tomorrow, but I’d like to.
#11 by Laura on November 23, 2010 - 6:53 pm
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Catrina,
Thanks for stopping by! You can actually use 5lbs of chicken wings instead of the turkey wings. I actually had to since I tested the recipe so early — my meat guy said they wouldn’t have turkey parts until last week.
And the recipe says to discard the wings, but since it was perfectly good chicken (if a smidge dry), I de-boned it and made chicken salad…
Good luck! Let me know how it all turns out.
#12 by Laura on November 23, 2010 - 6:56 pm
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I have another general note on the recipe… My drippings (and consequently my gravy) were plenty salty without me adding a single pinch.
I would recommend rinsing the turkey very well after the salt phase, and also consider using a fresh turkey (since frozen are usually injected with a sodium solution).
Happy Thanksgiving!
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#13 by Rachel on November 30, 2010 - 1:20 pm
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I made the same recipe and lo and behold, my turkey was ready way, way early as well. Like super ready – almost 200 degrees ready at the proper cooking time. I wish I had checked the temp prior to the final 45 minutes time frame the recipe specified. And I had the oven set at the correct temperature. The overdone-ness was not so noticeable in the first serving, but I definitely could tell the dark meat had taken the brunt of it when it came to the leftovers. Hopefully a long soak in turkey pot pie sauce that I made for the final leftovers will help.
The gravy was also very salty for me, but difficult to tell if that’s what I was tasting or the last squeeze of lemon that became a very prominent first note. That’s what I get for letting my father do the rinsing off and patting dry after the initial salting. I’ve come to the realization that salted or brined birds are made by the amount of rinsing off you do – it needs to be super aggressive – perhaps next year a hose will come into play.
#14 by Laura on December 2, 2010 - 11:02 pm
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Rachel! I really am laughing out loud.
I can’t help but feel vindicated by your similar experience. You might be on to something with this hose idea… !
Thanks so much for stopping by. Come back soon!
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