Archive for category Food of Love

A Letter

Dear Mom,

It’s my third Mother’s Day without you, and I can’t say that it’s gotten any easier. If anything, it’s more difficult.

I’m starting to realize that I will never “get over” you.  That I’ll never not miss you.

At one point during your funeral, I found myself surrounded by several women, all ten to twenty years older than me. They said just the right, most comforting things, Mom – and then I understood: they were all daughters who had lost their mothers.  I was being inducted into a sad sorority that I didn’t know existed, but I was grateful to have.

They told me that unexpected things would trigger my grief (like the time I burst into tears while reading an article about the national debt).  They told me how much growing up I would do in the months right after you were gone.  They told me that a day wouldn’t go by that I wouldn’t think of you, and it would be that way for the rest of my life.

At the time, I doubted that was possible; now I know it’s true.  You’ve left a hole in my heart, and it will be there when I die.

I know how odd this sounds, but I’m getting comfortable with the pain.  It’s become like an old friend — it doesn’t hurt any less, but I’m no longer surprised when it shows up at my door.  It’s strangely consistent, and as such, it’s strangely comforting.

Like everyone else, I continue to grow and change.  Each day, I’m older and wiser than the day before, and the longer it’s been since I’ve seen you, the more I have to tell you about what I’ve learned, the more we need to “catch up.”  But not only are we never going to catch up, I have a lifetime left to live without you, and we are never going to share any of it.  It’s a peculiar brand of loneliness.

Motherhood still doesn’t come easily to me, Mom.  I’m not half bad at it, but I’m certainly not a natural.  I work at it every day.

The Boy, for his part, is a marvel.  He’s curious and bright and outgoing, but headstrong and impish.  He’s a heckuva negotiator.  He constantly seeks laughter; it doesn’t take much to induce peals of giggling.  Occasionally he’ll say, “I love you, Mom,” unbidden — trying to sound like a big boy — and it melts my heart.  I know for a fact that you two would be close friends and natural allies, and that melts my heart, too.

Like me, he’s fiercely independent, and for all I put you through, I deserve the challenge of raising such a child.  I wish I could ask you how to survive raising a strong-willed little person: how to not only keep from snuffing out his independent streak, but parlay it into leadership and character.  And perhaps most importantly, how to not wind up on blood pressure medication in the process.

His eyes are exact replicas of mine, which I’m still not quite used to. When I bend down to explain why it’s important to tell the truth, or why he’s not allowed to play with knives, I find myself getting lost, forgetting my message, because it’s just so surreal to see my own eyes staring back at me.  Moments like these shake me out of my daily haze and realize that wait: I have son, we are a family, I have passed my genes along to another generation.  He is a whole person, the hero of his own story.  I find this stunning.

If I really believe that I what I believe is really real, then you are with me in spirit.  If it’s all true, then you and Daddy are together.  Maybe you were even there with him that day, when he realized what was coming, but before he fell – those few minutes or seconds probably felt like an eternity, when he was alone and probably afraid.

If what I believe is really real, then I have a chance at seeing you again someday — if I fight the good fight, if I finish the race.  If we meet in heaven, will we embrace and finally “catch up”?  Or will we be so awestruck by God’s presence, so overwhelmed by the beauty of the place, that we won’t have the inclination to do anything but worship?  I like to think that if heaven is really paradise, then we can do both – a kind of cosmic multi-tasking, like when I sing 80s hair metal songs at the top of my lungs while safely operating a motor vehicle.

The truth is, Mom, that I have my doubts some days.  Most of us do, I suppose.  You were my spiritual mentor, the one I would talk to about all this, and I miss that, too.  If you were here, you would tell me that I have been given all the answers, and I only need to pray and search my heart to make the fear and doubt fade quietly away.  And you’d be right.

I realize now, through writing this, that you haven’t actually left a hole in my heart – I was born with it.  We’re all born with holes in our hearts, designed to receive a mother’s love.  And I see now how lucky I am to have had my particular heart filled by you, specifically.  The hole in my heart is still full, still bursting with your love, because as my friend Joy once wrote to me, true love is truly good, and what is truly good never dies.

You are always with me; I just wish that I knew how to always feel it.

I will keep trying.  I will keep learning.

Pray for me.

I love you.

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If Mom were here today, I would have made this Chocolate Caramel Slice recipe to celebrate Mother’s Day.

I think she would have liked this particular combination of sweet and salty. She would certainly have appreciated the recipe itself — how it’s easier than it looks, how pretty the final result is, how it can be made far in advance of an event.

I would have wanted to gab with her about the British-ness of it all: the Lyle’s golden syrup, the Maldon salt, the fact that it’s called a “slice.”  This would have led to reminiscing about our trip to London, before she was sick.  Maybe we would have vowed to return there, after she’d beaten the cancer, to sample more British desserts in the name of “research.”

Happy Mother’s Day, Mom.

 

Chocolate Caramel Slice
Adapted Slightly from Bon Appetit Desserts, copyright 2010

Crust
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/4 cup (packed) light brown sugar
2 teaspoons cornstarch
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 tablespoon ice water
1 large egg yolk

Caramel Topping
14 ounces sweetened condensed milk
1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 tablespoons golden syrup (such as Lyle’s), or dark corn syrup
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Chocolate Glaze
6 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
3 tablespoons heavy whipping cream
Flaked sea salt (such as Maldon)

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously butter a tart pan with a removable bottom (either a 12 x 8 1/4 x 1, or an 11-inch round).

Crust:
In a food processor, pulse the flour, sugar, cornstarch, and salt to combine. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the ice water and the egg yolk, then blend until moist clumps form. Pat the dough into the bottom of the pan (not the sides), forming an even layer. Prick the dough all over with a fork, then bake until golden, about 22 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack.

Caramel:
Whisk milk, sugar, butter, syrup, and vanilla in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat until the sugar dissolves and the butter melts. Boil gently, whisking constantly, until the caramel is thick, golden, and a candy thermometer registers 225°F. This took me about 15 minutes. Pour the caramel over the cooled crust, spreading in an even layer. Let cool for 15 minutes to set.

Chocolate:
Combine chopped chocolate and cream in a microwave-safe bowl, then microwave on high for 30 seconds. Stir, then microwave on high in 15-second intervals, stirring between each, until chocolate is smooth. Do not overheat or the mixture will separate. This took me 1 minute and 15 seconds total microwave time, but your results will vary depending on your microwave. Spread the chocolate over the caramel, spreading in an even layer. Sprinkle with sea salt. Refrigerate until the chocolate is set, at least 1 hour. (Can be made up to three days ahead. Cover and keep refrigerated.)

To serve, cut dessert lengthwise into strips, and then across into bars.

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Make a Playbook, Have a Cookie.

There’s a document in my life that is so important, so useful, that I have multiple copies of it stashed away.  There’s a printed version in the bag I carry to work every day, and another copy on my desk at home.  I have it saved on my laptop, and on a little jump drive that I keep in my purse, in case I need to refer to it while I’m on the run.  I also have it backed up on an external hard drive that we keep in our safe deposit box.  You see, this document was a gift, and I’m not exaggerating when I tell you it’s the single most loving gesture anyone has ever made for me.

I’ve told you about the last conversation I ever had with my mother, but those weren’t actually her final words to me.  Her last words are in underlined, bold, all-caps font at the top of the document I’m describing.

Her font choice makes me smile.   Mom was a gentle soul in many ways — strong in her faith, terrified of confrontation — but she had a brash, emphatic way of communicating.  I’ll just say it: Mom was bossy.

It kind of looks like she’s yelling, but to me, underlined, bold, all-caps fits her perfectly.

LAURA, I DID MY BEST; IF SOME OF THIS IS CONFUSING OR IN ERROR/OUT OF DATE, I AM VERY SORRY!!!  I HOPE THIS HELPS DURING THIS DIFFICULT TIME.

I LOVE YOU MORE THAN WORDS CAN SAY, MOM

The rest goes on for sixteen single-spaced pages.  It outlines the following:

  • Basic Identification Information
    • Dates of Birth
    • Social Security Numbers
    • Driver’s License Numbers
    • Contact Information (Name, Address, Email, Phone Numbers) for:
      • Doctors
      • Attorneys
      • Financial Planners / Accountants
      • Insurance Agents
    • Medical Information
      • Medications
      • Prior surgeries and complications
      • Allergies
      • Blood Types
    • Locations of all copies of their legal documents, including passports, birth certificates, marriage certificate, wills, living wills, durable powers of attorney, and medical powers of attorney
    • Location of their safe deposit box and keys, and list of the contents
    • A basic balance sheet, showing what they own, what they owe, and any amounts owed to them
    • Instructions on where to find a separate list of passwords to their online banking and other important websites
    • Basic operational information about Mom’s small business
    • List of all real estate owned, including legal descriptions and location of deeds
    • Their wishes regarding organ donation
    • Warranty information on their vehicles
    • Account numbers and PINs for all their bank accounts and credit cards
    • Location of their pre-purchased burial plots, and whom to contact about them
    • Basic overview of their pension and retirement benefits
    • Basic overview of all insurance policies, including agent names, contact information, company name, policy numbers, premiums paid, potential refunds, expected benefits
      • This list includes personal policies like life, medical, accidental death and dismemberment, and long term care, but also homeowners insurance, auto insurance, flood insurance, etc.
    • A list of their bills, due dates, payment methods, and account numbers
    • Contact information for their neighbors, friends, family, and clergy
    • A complete plan for their funerals, including suggestions for ministers, pall bearers, lectors, choir members, hymns, prayers, and Bible readings.  She even suggested the engraving for their tombstone.
    • A list of instructions/requests regarding certain personal items (who should receive certain pieces of jewelry, for example)

If you’re like me, just reading that list makes you tired.  It’s overwhelming.  But I can’t tell you the amount of stress and grief my mother saved me by preparing this information before she died.

Dad was the first to admit that Mom ran the household.  She spoiled me, he told me after she died, while we reviewed everything at the kitchen table.  She spoiled me, and I let her.  We liked it that way.

He was apologizing, but he needn’t have, because Mom put her playbook into my hands.  She knew that without it, I would be the equivalent of a Pee Wee League quarterback trying to play in the Super Bowl.

While she suffered and we knew she was dying, the days and hours seemed to stretch on forever.   The world was in slow motion, underwater.  I couldn’t breathe.

The moment she was actually gone, the world changed gears and went into warp speed.  There wasn’t enough time to think of all the details.  Everything was swirling and whirring and clicking around me; the phone wouldn’t stop ringing.  I held on to Daddy, which was the only way I could be sure we were both okay.  I couldn’t breathe.

But it could have been worse.  Much worse.  Mom’s playbook eliminated untold measures of worry and guesswork.

I didn’t have to stress, for example, about how to reach all of her friends — even the ones from decades ago that I barely knew.  Without her breadcrumb trail, I would have had to figure out last names and addresses for “Pat and Jesse” (Didn’t they live in Port Arthur?  Or was it Port Aransas?  Or Aransas Pass?) and “red-headed Nancy” (She moved out of state, right? Wasn’t she remarried?).

I also didn’t have decide the details of her funeral.  I guarantee I would have forgotten at least one major component, and I would have been crushed later, when I happened to hear her favorite hymn, or the psalm she loved so much.

Perhaps most importantly, Dad and I didn’t have to wonder if there was a bank account we didn’t know about, or whether a bill was due, or how to pay the property taxes.  It was all right there.

It’s not the most uplifting topic in the world, but the fact is that we’re all going to die one day.  When we do, someone is to have to pick up the pieces of our legal and financial lives.  If we have young children, someone is going to have to raise them and educate them.  Someone will plan our funerals.  Someone will bury us, or scatter our ashes, or keep us in a lovely urn on their mantle.

Do you know who that someone is?  Will they have the information they need to do the job?

I can tell you from experience that being someone’s “someone” is a badge of honor, an act of service, a labor of love.  It’s also overwhelming and very difficult.

But you know what makes me feel warm and loved in the midst of it all?  Knowing for a fact that my mother did everything she possibly could to lighten my load.   From her own experience, she knew that grief is painful enough without the chaos, confusion, and anxiety of trying to handle someone else’s affairs blindly.  She loved me enough to straighten my path.

It’s an act of love that I will carry with me for the rest of my life.

MOM, I DID MY BEST; IF SOMETHING SLIPPED THROUGH THE CRACKS, I AM VERY SORRY!!!  I HOPE I MET YOUR EXPECTATIONS DURING THIS DIFFICULT TIME.

I LOVE YOU MORE THAN WORDS CAN SAY, LAURA

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With Tax Day still a very recent memory, a lot of the pertinent information for a project like this is still on the top layer of your desk.  If you’re interested, you can start by looking here and here.  For additional help, find a lawyer or financial professional that you trust and have them guide you.

Or perhaps you already have your affairs in order, and you’ve given your loved ones the gift of their future peace of mind.  In that case, you deserve a cookie!

Here’s a classic chocolate chip cookie, which I adapted from Joy of Cooking.  They are thin and chewy, just the way I personally prefer.

Classic Chocolate Chip Cookies

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar (light brown sugar can also be used)
1 large egg, room temperature
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Milk, for serving

 

Preheat the oven to 375°F.  Line cookie sheets with parchment paper.  Stash a drinking glass into the freezer.

Whisk the flour and soda together thoroughly; set aside.  In the large bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter and two sugars on medium to medium-high speed until very well blended, at least two full minutes.  (The longer you mix them, the more air you incorporate into the batter, which makes for a lighter, more tender cookie.)  Add the egg, salt and vanilla, and beat well until combined.

Add the flour mixture and the chocolate chips; stir just until smooth and well incorporated.

Drop rounded teaspoonfuls onto the parchment lined sheets, spacing a full two inches apart.  (The more consistent the sizes of the dropped cookies are, the more evenly they will cook.)

Bake (only one sheet at a time!), until the cookies are barely done — slightly colored on top and a little brown at the edges, 8 to 10 minutes.  Rotate the sheet 180 degrees halfway through cooking, to ensure even browning.

Remove the sheet to a cooking rack and let stand until the cookies are firm enough to handle, about 3 minutes.

Remove the drinking glass from the freezer and fill with cold milk.  Put your feet up, eat a just-baked cookie; wash it down with milk.

Transfer the cookies you didn’t eat directly to the cooling rack to finish cooling.

The cookies will keep in an airtight container for about two days.  (To keep them longer, add a slice of fresh bread to the container — the bread will dry out, but the cookies will stay moist.)

Texas Preserved: A Linkery

As promised, I’ve attempted to capture all the banter about Foodways Texas’ 2nd Annual Symposium: Texas Preserved in a single place.

I’ll do my best to keep it up to date.  If you know of a write-up not included here, please write me at whitefluffyicing (at) gmail (dot) com.

Enjoy!

Addie Broyles | austin360.com’s Relish Austin | Looking to the Past to See Our Culinary Future

Addie Broyles | austin360.com’s Relish Austin | Foodways Texas Symposium: The Effects of Drought on the Texas Food Supply

Addie Broyles | austin360.com’s Relish Austin | Foodways Texas Symposium: A Short But Not Always Sweet History of Sugar in Texas

Department of American Studies at the University of Texas at Austin | Faculty and Grad Research: Foodways Texas Symposium

Department of American Studies at the University of Texas at Austin | Faculty and Grad Research: Photos from the Texas Restaurants Project

Emma Janzen | austin360.com’s Liquid | Anvil’s Bobby Heugel on Preserving Southern Cocktail History

Jaime Adame | Dallas Morning News | Foodways Symposium Honors Texas Food

Jessica Dupuy | Texas Monthly’s Eat My Words | Texas Spirits: Bobby Heugel Says We Have To Be Patient

Kelly Yandell | The Meaning of Pie | Foodways Texas 2012 Symposium “Texas Preserved”

Leanna Fossler | The Little Baker | That One in the Group

Pat Sharpe | Texas Monthly’s Eat My Words | Foodways Texas is Getting Fat and Sassy

Phyllis Brasenell | You Are Where You Eat | Geeking Out: Notes From The Foodways Texas Symposium, Day 1

Phyllis Brasenell | You Are Where You Eat | Geeking Out: Notes From The Foodways Texas Symposium, Day 2

Robb Walsh | Texas Eats | Texas Preserved: 2012 Foodways Texas Symposium

Virginia B. Wood | Austin Chronicle | Food-o-File

Will Burdette | No Satiation | Episode 110: Foodways Texas

Will Burdette | No Satiation | Foodways Texas Symposium Audio Slideshow

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Foodways Texas: Connection Points

If I haven’t told you before, I started White Fluffy Icing as a memoir — a kind of living history — with food as the medium.  The stories I tell here are for The Boy: stories about today and the way he  infiltrates and enhances my life, stories about yesterday and how I became who I am, stories handed down by previous generations that will die with me if not captured somehow.

When this blog has run its course, I will edit it (heavily), print it, bind it, and give it to him.  Maybe The Boy will never read it, but maybe his children will.  Maybe he’ll never have kids, but his cousin will.  Maybe it’ll gather dust in an attic somewhere and it will never see the light of day, but I will have done my part.  It begins with me.

Both of my parents are gone, but I’m still getting to know them.  How?  Through stories.  I’m finding letters they wrote, notes they jotted down, cookbooks they annotated.  I didn’t know, for example, that when Mom married Dad, she wanted to have twelve children (and presumably live in a shoe).  I’m not sure what it means that she stopped with me, her second, but that’s for me and my therapist to work out.

What would happen if more of us captured our own histories?  We would have a broader base to learn from, a firmer foundation from which to scan the horizon.  We would simply know more, and we can never know enough.

This is why I get so excited about Foodways Texas.  More than anything else, it’s about capturing stories — our stories, all of them.  When I examine my personal history, I learn about myself — but when we examine each other’s histories, we start to understand each other in ways we never could dream of otherwise.  It’s a powerful concept.

I just returned from the 2nd Annual Foodways Texas Symposium, titled ‘Texas Preserved’, and like last year, I was overwhelmed by it.  So overwhelmed, in fact, that when it was over, I sat in my car and had a good cry before I headed home.  I’m not talking about one or two crocodile tears, I’m talking about makeup-ravaging, leaned-over-the-steering-wheel, just-let-it-all-out sobbing.  It wasn’t pretty.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Actually, the crying began before I even left home.  All my life, I’ve had an overactive imagination, which has a warm and fuzzy ring to it, as though you’re describing a young Jim Henson.  But trust me, it’s a blessing and curse.  It can be terrifying.

As a new mother, my imagination ran wild with all the ways The Baby Boy could be injured or killed — vivid, horrific images that I could not clear from my mind.  They weren’t far-fetched scenarios, they were things happen every day to babies the world over.  It’s easier now, but I still struggle with it.

Since Dad died — so suddenly, and while feeling so well — I have new challenges.  I can’t stop thinking about how any one of us could be gone tomorrow, myself included.  I know it’s irrational, but the thing is, it’s also true.  I’ve told you before, denial isn’t in my DNA, but it sure would be handy sometimes.

The morning of the day I left, I kissed The Boy goodbye at preschool, and for whatever reason, my brain went wild.  What if The Boy dies while I’m gone?  What if Matt dies while they’re home together?  What if this is the last time I see either of them?  What if, what if, what if…?

I’m told that this fixation on death is a natural part of grief, and that it will pass, but that sure wasn’t helping me last Thursday.

Adding fuel to the fire was an acute desire to call my mama.  She would have been dismissive, probably, telling me that we all have enough real problems to deal with, no sense in manufacturing more –  but it would have been just the thing to snap me out of it.

Then another thought hit me: The Boy is only three years old.  His journey to adulthood, with all its inherent problems — real ones — stretched out before and around me in 360 degrees, like the Mojave desert.  How many parenting problems will I face without my own parents to talk to?  How many more times will I want to call my mother?  What if I’m in over my head?

I cried so hard I gave myself a headache.  Then I packed and drove to Austin.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I approached from the east on Cesar Chavez, whereupon I was greeted by a man riding his bike down the center yellow line of the street in a cockroach costume.  His face was lifted skyward, basking in the sun, with little apparent regard for me (aka, opposing traffic).  Welcome to Austin, I thought.  I need a little of what he’s got.

The Foodways Texas family is a talented crew.  There are going to be write-ups by others about the things we talked about, and the food we ate.  I’ve seen amazing photos already, and there are more to come.  Like last year, I’ll create a linkery for you, so that you can see it all — and like last year, I have no interest in trying to hold a candle to any of those folks.

What I do have interest in is sharing with you some of the personal experiences I had, in hopes of giving you a glimmer of what this organization and their work means to me.

I decided during the drive up that I wouldn’t take any notes or photos.  I wanted to focus on connecting with people, and I’m not talented enough to listen — really listen — if I’m looking for sound bites or photographs at the same time.  I decided that when asked a question, I would answer it in an authentic way.  In short, I wanted to let my guard down and see what would happen.

A lot happened.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

First, there’s Lisa Powell, Foodways Texas’ program director.  I emailed her ahead of time to let her know that I’d be in town a little early, and asked her to please let me know if there was anything I could do to help.

Acts 20:35 taught us that it’s better to give than to receive, and that’s true, but it’s also easier to give than to receive.  After all, being able to give means that you’re in a position of surplus — a fortunate circumstance.  Receiving means that you’re in need of help, something that can be awfully difficult to admit.

Lisa graciously welcomed my assistance Thursday night and Friday morning.  I like to think I really helped her out, at least in some small way — in exchange, I got to know her and her main squeeze Roland, the cutest couple you ever did see.  I got to hear about Lisa’s background in history and math (left-brained girls, unite!), and the dissertation she’s working on about the competition between the corn economy and the energy economy in western Kentucky, her home state.  Roland and I discussed, among many other things, the wonder of astronomy, the ways that the City of Austin manipulates its own real estate market, and the merits (or lack thereof) of okra.

By the end of the weekend, we’d gone from zero to sixty so fast, I didn’t even know how to tell her goodbye.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Helping Lisa Friday morning meant that I arrived early to our lunch venue, where chef Justin Yu, a Houston sensation, was preparing a bycatch lunch.  He was running behind schedule.  With his permission, I scrubbed in and started counting 150 plates for the service, laying them out like canvases on which he would create his beautiful work.

“All the plates are out, chef.  Is there anything else I can do?”

Sure, he said, without looking at me.  Count out the bowls for dessert.

150 bowls and a new table configuration later: “The bowls are finished, chef.  How else can I assist?”

He looked me in the eye for the briefest moment, then handed me a container of kale.  He took a piece and said, Here, can you lay these on the plate like this?  He propped the small leaf artfully over the other preserved vegetables.

I took a deep breath, tried not to squeal, and said, Certainly.”

About 20 minutes later, as we were finishing the plates, I asked: “Chef Justin, how do you work so quickly without obsessing over each one?”

Eventually, he said, you have to learn to let go.

Yes, I thought.  I do.

A lesson.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Friday afternoon, I got to know Julia, a lovely young woman and a talented photographer.  The battery in her camera had died, so I loaned her mine — it might as well be of use to someone.

I had just met Carla Loeb (of Slow Food Austin fame) moments before, and we were talking when Julia approached to return the camera.  She joined our conversation.  It took about thirty seconds to see Julia’s gentle, loving soul.

Carla and I asked about her background, and learned of Julia’s widely varied interests and obvious talents.  She’s in her early twenties, trying to figure out a path for herself that will balance it all, use it all, somehow pay the bills.  It wasn’t obvious to any of us what that path would be, but Carla and I were confident that Julia would figure it out.

Just put yourself out there, really out there, Carla said, and you’ll be amazed at how your life will find you.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

During Saturday’s lunch, dumb luck plopped me down directly across from a gentleman by the name of Dr. Jeff Savell, a professor of meat science at Texas A&M University.

We spoke for a bit about the Foodways Texas Barbecue Camp, which he had hosted last summer to much fanfare and success, and then, looking at my name tag, he asked me about White Fluffy Icing.  I explained that it was a memoir-based food blog, and that I was capturing my voice and my family’s history for my son.  I told him about my reluctance to pursue a food-related career, for fear that I would commoditize my passion, and in the process, lose it.

We talked for a good long while, exchanging stories.  I mentioned my gratitude that my mom, who’d died of cancer, had a chance to read and comment on the blog right before she died.  And now my father was gone, too….

My voice cracked, and I dabbed my eyes with a napkin.  I made an excuse to take a walk, I returned with my composure intact, and we resumed our stories.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Just before dinner that night, I ran into Barbara, whom I’d met in Houston a couple of weeks prior.  There’s something that draws me to her, something about the way she looks at me that puts me at ease.  It probably isn’t a coincidence that she’s about my mother’s age and has daughters about my age.

Barbara asked about my upbringing, and then I asked about hers.  She told the story about how her daddy was from Louisiana and her mother was from the Midwest, where they met and married.  He called his family to tell them he was moving home with his new wife, who was apparently a petite little thing.  His bride was agog when she met his mother and sisters — all tall, sturdy, opinionated women.

They didn’t accept her at first, Barbara explained.  But my mother decided to teach herself how to cook Cajun food, and they started getting along a lot better once she started making gumbo.

“Barbara,” I said, “what a great example of how food connects us. Your mother adopted part of her new family’s heritage, and it changed their relationship.”

You know, she said, I’ve never really thought about it that way.  But you’re right.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Sunday, I ran into Dr. Savell again, along with his lovely wife Jackie.  He’d read WFI the night before, which made me gulp — why hadn’t I posted something eloquent and witty before hitting the road?

He told me how he shared the Valentine’s cupcakes with Jackie, a scratch baker.

But then I saw the story about your dad’s funeral, he said, and I just wasn’t prepared for that. 

A tear ran down his face.

And then he told me about how he had survived cancer four years ago, and about the colonoscopy that saved his life.  We talked about what it’s like to face death and admit vulnerability, and how it changes you.  How fragile life becomes — or rather, that you realize how fragile and precious life has been been all along.

We talked about how angels appear in the most unexpected places.

We talked about the miracle of modern medicine.

We talked about what it means to have friends in times of need.

Both of our cheeks were wet.  We hugged and departed as friends.

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I could go on and on, but now you understand why I got in my car and cried like a baby.  It was intense.  It was inspiring.  It was unreal.  And you haven’t even seen the linkery yet.

If you care at all about preserving Texas culture, or about connecting with an amazing group of people, please attend a Foodways Texas event and consider becoming a  member.  We would love to have you join our family.

For more information about Foodways Texas and upcoming events, please visit the Foodways Texas website.

More soon.

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Pie Contest!

Hey! Whatcha doin’ next Saturday, March 3?

If you’re free, you should join me at the Brazoria Heritage Celebration. Last year was my first time to attend, and I was tickled at what a charming, well-run event it is.  There’s a car show, a tractor show, a gun show, a parade, and tons of stuff for kids to do.  The train museum itself is worth the trip.  And rumor has it that they’re adding a treasure hunt with metal detectors this year.  The Boy is gonna eat that up.

I’ll be helping judge the pie contest — you remember, the one that 10-year-old Haley won last year, and the year before? I wonder if she’ll be back to defend her title and attempt a three-peat.  Join me and find out — nay, enter a pie and find out!  I’d love to see you there.

Brazoria Heritage Celebration.

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Friendship (Through the Narrow Aisles of Pain)

A friend is a second self. –Aristotle

Planning a funeral is a lot like planning a wedding, only on three days’ notice. For Dad’s funeral, I needed a church, a priest, lectors, altar boys. Instead of groomsmen, I needed pallbearers.

I needed something to wear. I needed something for Dad to wear. I needed four thousand tissues and a metric ton of makeup.

When I took Dad’s best suit to the funeral home, I forgot to include a rosary to be placed in his hand. I intended to bring one to the wake service, but in the sad chaos of it all, it slipped my mind then, too. It was a small detail — nothing more than a symbol, really — but praying the rosary was an important part of both my parents’ lives. Burying each of them with one was meaningful.

Thankfully, I remembered to bring it to the church on the day of the funeral. Among the unending details, I somehow managed to find five minutes that would allow me this indulgence, this one moment of closure. The funeral director wasn’t anywhere nearby; he was busy handling bigger pieces of our somber ritual. I could try tracking him down (and surely be diverted in the process), or I could figure it out myself and know with certainty that it was done.

In our thirty five years together, Dad and I shared a lot of moments in that little church. During Mass, he would always offer me his hand, and I would always take it – a silent gesture of affection that we’d share during the Bible readings and through the homily.

Looking down at our clasped hands in those moments, it was almost comical how different they were. Mine are pale with a highway system of bluish green veins just beneath the skin.  Dad’s hands matched his dark complexion and were rough from a life spent working on tractors and cars.  My fingers are long and slender; his, thick and compact – like the jaws of a vise. A gentle vise. A gentle vise that liked to be held and examined.

I don’t know how many Masses we attended together, holding hands, but that was our routine. Our little routine in this little church.

I was in robot mode when I walked over to place the rosary with Dad, more focused on all the remaining things to be done than on what I was actually doing. I was looking at his hands, trying to decide how to place the rosary, and then… I saw his hands. I snapped to the moment, and I really saw them. They were handsome, bordered by the cuffs of his suit jacket, those calloused hands I had held so many Sundays.

His hands. Tears stung my eyelids; I thought my knees might buckle.

I tucked the rosary in as best I could, threading the beads through his palm and letting the crucifix lay gently across his knuckles. I hovered, staring, overanalyzing.  My fierce intent on it looking natural was ironic, given how entirely unnatural it all was.

Suddenly, Aunt Denise was standing next to me, saying that it looked perfect, just perfect. I felt reassured.

My work was done, but I wasn’t ready to leave him. I reached out and touched his hand again. It was ice cold — much colder than I had expected — but I didn’t care. It was still his. I examined it for the last time. His calluses were still there, his skin still weathered and tough. His hands.

I felt feminine, nurturing: a woman looking after her father. I was holding his hand, as though comforting him, while acutely aware that he wasn’t actually there. I was nurturing the shell of a man that I had known well and loved deeply.

I could have stood there for hours, but it was nearly time for the funeral to begin.  The priest and the family were waiting. I took a deep breath, turned — and literally walked into my friend Meredith.  She’d been with me when I thought I was all alone.

I looked up to explain, but her soft eyes told me she understood. She wrapped her arms around me and I lost my composure for a brief moment. She held me close.

We both knew it would be the last time I would see my father.

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When the ceremony was over, our family shuffled out of the church behind the priest, ahead of everyone else. We were suddenly standing in the sunshine; a beautiful day.

I felt a little lost, unsure of what to do next.

I turned and saw my friend Lisa standing in the church yard, holding her infant son. She must have stepped outside to change him, or shoosh him, not realizing that she was planting herself exactly where I would need her a few moments later.

Her eyes were big, brimming with tears. I can’t imagine, her eyes told me, silently. But when I try, my heart aches and the tears come and I just really hurt for you.

I went to her and she pulled me in tight, her strong embrace having plenty of room for both me and her sweet boy. She touched my hair.

It was invigorating to be loved like that, in that moment.  The rest of the day, including the burial, stretched out before me, and I was more than willing to borrow her strength.

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I can recount a dozen more stories of how my friends rallied around me when Dad died.

How Leah instantly grasped the grief I was too shocked to yet feel.

How Andy held my hand that day.

How Jamie inspired me to somehow find paradise in the midst of my sorrow.

How Shana talked with me about things that only daughters who have lost their fathers too soon can really understand.

In the opening lines of her poem Solitude, Ella Wheeler Wilcox wrote, “laugh and the world laughs with you; weep and you weep alone.”  I love that piece for its harrowing insights about grief, but bless her heart, Ella must not have had friends like mine.

I weep, but I do not weep alone.

My second selves weep with me.

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Solitude
By Ella Wheeler Wilcox

Laugh, and the world laughs with you;
Weep, and you weep alone.
For the sad old earth must borrow it’s mirth,
But has trouble enough of its own.
Sing, and the hills will answer;
Sigh, it is lost on the air.
The echoes bound to a joyful sound,
But shrink from voicing care.

Rejoice, and men will seek you;
Grieve, and they turn and go.
They want full measure of all your pleasure,
But they do not need your woe.
Be glad, and your friends are many;
Be sad, and you lose them all.
There are none to decline your nectared wine,
But alone you must drink life’s gall.

Feast, and your halls are crowded;
Fast, and the world goes by.
Succeed and give, and it helps you live,
But no man can help you die.
There is room in the halls of pleasure
For a long and lordly train,
But one by one we must all file on
Through the narrow aisles of pain.

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I learned from my mother about the importance of having deep, meaningful friendships.  All her life, she maintained a wide and varied circle of people that she loved, and they loved her right back.

There’s a story about Mom and a lemon cake she encountered while on an outing with a group of girlfriends.  She and her friends raved over that cake, and she vowed to replicate it when she got home, which she did.

Linda, one of the friends that was there that day, contributed the recipe for the lemon cake to our church’s 100th anniversary cookbook, in Mom’s honor.  She called it “Girlfriend’s Lemon Icebox Cake,” which makes me smile every time I see it.

I was inspired by this story of friendship to make mom’s icebox cake, but it calls for lemon cake mix and lemon instant pudding, which I didn’t have on hand.  What I did have on hand was a raft of Meyer lemons from my neighbors Joe and Janet — so I made these cupcakes instead.

Triple Lemon Cupcakes

(Adapted from Peace Meals, a gorgeous cookbook published in 2008 by the Junior League of Houston, a copy of which was given to me by my good friend, Jamie)

Cupcakes:
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 eggs, room temperature
16 ounces sour cream, room temperature
2 teaspoons finely shredded lemon zest

Lemon Curd:
5 egg yolks
1 cup sugar (if you’re using Meyers, taste them — if they’re sweet, you may want to cut the sugar back to 3/4 cup)
4 lemons, zested and juiced
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, cut into pats and chilled

Frosting:
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, room temperature
3 cups powdered sugar
2 tablespoons Coffee Mate powdered creamer (it cuts the sweetness!)
3 teaspoons milk
1/4 cup Lemon Curd

For the cupcakes:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 24 standard muffin cups with paper baking liners (I prefer Reynolds brand double layered liners, foil with paper inside). In a medium bowl, whisk or sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter on medium high speed until creamy, about 30 seconds. Gradually add the sugar; beat on high speed until lightened in color and texture, at least 2 minutes and up to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla and then the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the flour mixture in three parts, alternating with the sour cream in two parts, beating on low speed after each addition just until combined, creating a thick batter. Stir in the lemon zest. Spoon about 1/4 cup of the batter into each prepared cup. Bake about 20 to 25 minutes or until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool completely.

For the lemon curd:
Combine the egg yolks, sugar, and lemon zest in a medium stainless steel or enamel saucepan. Whisk until smooth lightened in color, about 1 minute. Measure the lemon juice and, if needed, add enough cold water to reach 1/3 cup. Add the juice to the egg mixture and whisk again until smooth. Add the pats of butter, then cook over medium heat, whisking, until the butter is melted. Continue to whisk constantly until the mixture is thickened, allowing it to simmer gently for a few seconds. Scrape the curd into a clean bowl. Let cool, then cover with layer of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the curd. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. (It will continue to thicken when refrigerated.)

For the frosting:
Cream the butter on medium speed until light and fluffy. Gradually add the powdered sugar and powdered creamer, then add the milk and blend until smooth. Add the Lemon Curd and mix until well blended.

To assemble:
Scoop out the center of each cupcake using a melon baller, spoon, 1-inch biscuit cutter, or whatever tool you have on hand that will do the trick. Fill each cupcake center with the Lemon Curd. Top each cupcake with frosting, either piping through a bag (you can use a regular old zip-top bag with one of the corners snipped off) or with a butter knife.

Note: You might be wondering what to do with 24 little scraps of cake.  I had plans to make a parfait from mine, but my husband and my kiddo swiped them before I had a chance.  I imagine you won’t have a problem disposing of yours, either…

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Room In The Inn

There’s a particular dish that, for me, sums up everything that the Christmas season is all about.

Fried chicken.

It’s an odd choice, no?  Perhaps you expected figgy pudding.  Let me explain.

It was roughly twenty years ago, in the early 90s. After a long day’s work, my friend Andy was greeted at his front door by a complete stranger.  Hi, I’m Holly, she said, peering through her glasses.  I’m gonna call you Daddy.  Her disheveled hair was blond; she wore a dirty, well-worn purple dress.  She was five years old, maybe six.

Andy went inside and learned that Holly really was going to be calling him Daddy – she was joining their family as a foster child.  As stressful or momentous as this may sound to you or me, this didn’t faze him much. It wasn’t the first foster kiddo for him and his wife Paula, and it wouldn’t be their last.

To be precise, Andy and Paula cared for exactly twenty children over the course of their foster parenting career, adopting three of those twenty in the process.  Add the two beautiful daughters they had the, uh, old fashioned way, and you’ve got yourself a bona fide brood.  In fact, Andy and Paula raised so many young children that they literally had a kid in kindergarten twelve years in a row.

Let me repeat that: They were parents of a kindergartner for twelve years in a row.

Given that their house was full of social workers, paperwork, and a mild level of general chaos, Andy knew that a home-cooked dinner wasn’t gonna happen on Holly’s first night with her new family.  So he did the sensible thing – he ran out and picked up some fried chicken from the place just up the street.

Later, at the dinner table, Holly’s eyes were understandably wide.  Reaching into the bucket of chicken, Andy asked whether Holly preferred a drumstick or a thigh; she chose drumstick. A few minutes later, Andy scooped some mashed potatoes onto her plate.  That’s when she said the words Andy would never forget:

You mean I get two things to eat tonight?

Now, I wasn’t there, but I’m willing to bet that every heart in the house melted right then.

Andy had no way to explain that their home was an all-you-can-eat kinda joint – it would have blown her little mind.  Instead, the family did their best to make her feel comfortable, welcome, and safe, the same way they’d done with the others who had sat in her place before.

It took a while for her to adjust, Andy told me.  It was months before she stopped raiding the kitchen garbage can for food.  He and Paula would find remnants and wrappers and scraps in the bedroom, leftovers from her late night scavenges.

Makes you think, doesn’t it?

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By now, we’re all familiar with the Christmas narrative:

And [Mary] brought forth her firstborn son, and wrapped him in swaddling clothes, and laid him in a manger; because there was no room for them in the inn.

In one sense, the story of Christ is a story of rejection.  He was rejected by the political and religious leaders of his day, he was rejected by his neighbors and townspeople, and eventually, he was rejected by his closest friends.

That story of rejection actually began the day he was born: There was no room for them in the inn.

Christ taught his followers to feed the hungry, clothe the naked, and welcome strangers.  He preached about caring for the sick and visiting those in prison.  When he left, he commissioned his followers to continue his work, to be his eyes and ears and hands and feet – that is, to be “the body of Christ.”

Sometimes I wonder if I’m truly a part of the body of Christ, if I’m really walking the walk.  It seems like such a tall order.  Is it possible, in this modern age, to do what he asked of us?

Then Christmas rolls around, and I think of this story.  There was room in Andy’s inn — for Holly and nineteen others.

Is there room in the inn of my heart?

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Once, during an awkward icebreaker exercise with a large group, I was asked what I would choose for my last meal.  Sidestepping the morbid nature of such an inquiry, the answer was easy: my mama’s fried chicken with all the fixin’s.

I’m not great at frying food, and I’m even worse at making gravy, but I’m learning.  Here’s a basic recipe.

Buttermilk Fried Chicken
adapted from the Joy of Cooking

3 to 3 1/2 pounds chicken drumsticks or thighs
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
3 teaspoons salt, divided
2 teaspoons black pepper, divided
Sriracha or other hot sauce to taste (optional)
2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon ground red (cayenne) pepper, optional (or substitute your favorite Cajun seasoning blend (e.g., Tony Chachere’s)in lieu of the salt and the cayenne)
About 3 cups solid vegetable shortening
Nearby box of baking soda and/or fire extinguisher, just in case (seriously!)

Rinse the chicken pieces and pat them dry. In a large bowl, combine the buttermilk, 1 teaspoon of the salt, 1 teaspoon of the pepper, and Sriracha or hot sauce, if using. Add the chicken to the buttermilk and turn to coat. Let stand for at least 15 minutes, or in the refrigerator for up to 12 hours.

In a large paper grocery bag, combine the flour, the remaining 2 teaspoons salt, the remaining 1 teaspoon black pepper, and cayenne pepper, if using. Shake to mix, then add the chicken pieces to the bag and shake until well coated.

In a large cast iron skillet (12-inch or larger), heat the shortening over medium-high heat to melt it. The goal is to have a 1/2 inch depth of hot melted shortening to fry in, so use more or less as necessary.

Heat the shortening to about 375 degrees, or until a small amount of flour sprinkled into the shortening bubbles furiously. Carefully lay the chicken pieces skin side down into the hot shortening. Cook for until browned on the bottom, about 10 minutes, checking frequently and repositioning if they are coloring unevenly. Lower the heat if they are browning too quickly.

Turn the pieces with tongs and cook an additional 10 minutes or so, until the second side is browned and the meat is cooked through. Remove the chicken to a wire rack set over a baking sheet. Hold in a warm (170 degree) oven if not serving immediately.

Inferiority

Life is easier now that we can bake cookies together.

Motherhood doesn’t come easily to me.

Don’t get me wrong, The Boy is thriving and I love him more than I ever dreamed possible, but parenting just isn’t a natural talent of mine.

Remember when you learned to play basketball for the first time, in gym class, and you slowly realized that some people just don’t have any hand-eye coordination?  It’s sort of like that.  When my friends hear my questions and concerns and frustrations about being a mom, they’re thinking, Why can’t she just put the ball in the basket?

An example:  When The Boy was but a wee thing — a month old, perhaps — my friends encouraged me to venture out.  Start small, they said.  Run a quick errand, or get a cup of coffee.  You’ll be surprised at how easy it is.

So I did.  I made sure he had a full belly, then put him in a fresh outfit.  Perhaps more noteworthy, I put me in a fresh outfit.  I packed an extra set of everything and set out for our two mile journey to the nearest coffee shop.

The drive was pleasant enough.  It was a sunny day, and when I looked back every five seconds, The Boy was oblivious, content.

My friends were right, I thought, it’s nice to be out.  We arrived uneventfully at the coffee shop.  I unclicked his bucket seat and carried him in.

It was about two o’clock on a weekday afternoon.  Aside from the baristas banging around behind the bar, it was quiet.  On a momentary break from life, the patrons were all quietly reading or pecking on a gadget or sipping coffee.  It was an oasis.  We had all escaped, including me.  I was out.

I walked to the counter, gently set the bucket on the floor, and dug around for my wallet.  That’s when the dream started to unravel.

Just as the barista asked what she could get for me, The Boy started to whimper.  Oh crap.  I reached out with my foot and tipped the round-bottomed bucket ever so slightly, to make it rock, and then quickly ordered a medium coffee to go.  Maybe if I acted like I knew what I was doing, it would all be okay.

For his part, The Boy was not amused.  The whimper quickly turned into a fuss.  My shoulders crept skyward, toward my earlobes.  Please tell me this isn’t happening.

The fuss turned into a cry, which quickly escalated into a howl.  I tossed some money on the counter, grabbed the coffee, and then turned and froze, staring down at my son.  How was I going to carry this heaping bucket-o-Boy and a cup of hot coffee at the same time?  And even if I could manage that, how was I going carry all that AND get my keys out AND unlock my door AND heave him back into the car?  I needed another arm.  (Octopus mamas must have it soooo easy.)

"Coffee shops aren't my thing. I'd rather hang in the kitchen."

The Boy kept howling, red now.  The bubble of our communal oasis had been burst — pillaged, sacked, plundered.  I could feel the intensely hot laser beams from everyone’s eyeballs, staring.  Now that I think about it, this explains why I broke out into a sweat.  Will someone please remind me why hot coffee was a good idea?

I had to get out of there.  I tucked the handle of the bucket into the crook of my strong arm and grabbed the coffee with the other hand.  I lurched like a zombie towards the door — bucket-toting arm lifted for leverage, coffee arm almost fully extended in anticipation of the now-certain spill, which would surely land directly on my infant son’s face and scald him beyond recognition.  Really?, I chided myself.  Hot coffee?

Outside, scorching tears of frustration, embarrassment and ineptitude sprang from my eyes as I ditched the cup in the garbage can and continued toward the car.  Once there, I looked him over.  His diaper was dry, his belly still full.  Nothing was poking or pulling or pinching him.  Why was he screaming?  Had I somehow dislocated his arm?  Were we being pursued by machete-wielding guerrillas, unbeknownst to me?  I looked around, just to be sure.

I eventually gave up, clicked his bucket back into the car, and drove home.  He screamed the whole way.  In fact, he screamed so loud and for so long, that he started to lose his voice.  (I challenge you to find that in a parenting book.)

Against my better judgment, I’m going to be perfectly honest with you and admit to something unflattering and quite uncourageous.  The thought that was going through my head as I pulled into the driveway was this:

I went and had a BABY and now I’m stuck in this HOUSE for the rest of my LIFE.

I’m about as extroverted as they come.  The thought of having to choose between staying home and breaking out in hives from the stress of “being out” was unbearable.  I felt as though I’d just heard my own death knell.

Things got better, of course.  The Boy grew and changed.  I grew and changed.  I went back to work, which helped.  He learned to crawl, then walk, then talk.  He’s no less demanding now, actually, but at least we understand each other.

Here’s another unflattering admission:  When I’m in quiet public places, like coffee shops and churches and movie theaters, and I hear a baby screaming, I secretly like it.  Even more so when it’s a mother, and she looks flustered, mopping her brow.  Isn’t that terrible?!

I’m not taking joy in their frustration, mind you; I’m just relishing the fact that I’m not alone.

Actually, I like to think of it this way: I’m curing myself of a quite-serious inferiority complex, one fussy baby at a time.

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In hindsight, a tiny coffee shop was not the greatest venue for a first adventure – I didn’t realize just how loud a baby could be in small quiet space.

My second mistake was actually ordering coffee.  What I should have done is ask for a cookie – a highly portable, room temperature, easily-scarfed-if-I-suddenly-have-to-carry-my-kid cookie.

The problem is, food at coffee shops is generally miserable.  So The Boy and I made cookies ourselves, which I adapted from the November issue of Food & Wine magazine.

Cranberry Chocolate Chip Cookies

Adapted from Dried Cranberry and Chocolate Cookies, Food & Wine, November 2011

1 1/2 cups dried cranberries
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup quick-cooking oats (or regular rolled oats)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1 large egg yolk, room temperature
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips


Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.  Cover the cranberries in hot water and let soak for at least 5 minutes, but not more than 10 minutes.  Drain the cranberries; set aside.


Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, oats, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a standing mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the butter and both sugars at medium speed until creamy, about 3-4 minutes. Add the egg followed by the egg yolk and vanilla, beating well between additions and scraping down the side of the bowl as necessary.  Add the flour mixture, chocolate chips and cranberries all at once and stir just until combined.


Spoon heaping teaspoons of the dough onto the baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the cookies begin to brown at the edges. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets, then transfer them to a rack to cool completely.


Store in an airtight container.

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Go Big or Go Home

This year’s grand prize went to Chef Richard Hawthorne from Grotto Las Vegas, for his “Updated Tiramisu.” Congratulations, Chef Richard!

In my professional life, age has crept up on me.

Early in my career, I kept my head down and my mouth shut.  I watched and learned.  I unjammed the copy machine and befriended the guys in the mail room.  Above all, I made sure there was always a cover sheet on my TPS report.

Then – suddenly, it seemed — people started asking for my expertise.

Wait.  I have expertise?  It occurred to me that I’ve been working for fifteen years.  It occurred to me that that’s a long time; maybe I do know a thing or two about a thing or two.

Huh.

Something really interesting happens on the way up the corporate ladder.  You start taking on projects and making decisions, which usually involves working with a few young guns, and it’s difficult to remember that you’re not one of them anymore.  You think back to the managers you worked with back in the day – they were smart, they were put together, they were… old.  You do some mental math, and it strikes you that they must have been in their mid-thirties at the time.  You gasp as realize that you are in your mid-thirties. You’re “that guy” – that old manager.  See how it creeps up?

Okay, fine.  You’re old and you have more responsibility.  That leads to another realization – you suddenly know full well those young’uns are criticizing you at the water cooler.  You see the way they look at you; those pre-pubescent punks think your job is easy.  They think they have all the answers.

Hey!, you want to shout in their direction as you sprint by the water cooler, late for a meeting, this isn’t as easy as it looks! There are budget constraints and politics and too many board members and not enough minions…

You can’t say that, of course.  Didn’t I mention that there aren’t enough minions?

The thing is, they’re probably right, at least on some level.  They likely have some really good ideas – fresh takes on old problems, insights on new ones. Heck, they probably even know what cloud computing is. If you’re smart, you’ll tap into those ideas, sift through them, and put the good ones to work.

But how?  The smart kids – the ones with the first-class ideas – know that their safest course of action is to keep quiet.  Speaking up is risky.

In fact, soliciting ideas within your organization is such a prevalent management issue that The Wall Street Journal recently ran a piece about it.  The article, written by Rachel Emma Silverman, discusses methods ranging from the wearisome suggestion box to online idea-submission systems to dedicated ATM-like kiosks situated in high-traffic employee areas.

Those are all well and good, but the best example I’ve seen of a company tapping into the potential of its employees is at Landry’s, Inc.

For those who may not be familiar, the Landry’s empire, headquartered in Houston, is one of the largest in the country.  They operate 35 different concepts, which include over 300 restaurants and entertainment properties, and employ approximately 350 chefs.  They have operations in 31 states.

How do you even begin to manage all that?  How can you possibly keep the ideas fresh?  How do you inspire that many chefs to push the envelope, to keep innovating, to figure out what works best?  More importantly, how do you encourage the best ones to share what they know?

Well, if you’re Landry’s, you appeal to their egos and conduct an invitation-only smackdown.

For seven years, Landry’s has invited its top culinary professionals from across the country to compete head to head in a two-day cooking competition. This year, 36 chefs presented 78 dishes over a two day time period, battling for honors in four categories: appetizer, salad, entrée, and dessert.

The stakes?  Bragging rights, of course, along with the potential for their dish to be featured on menu of a Landry’s restaurant.  And for the first time, this year’s winner for Best Overall Dish won a trip to the annual Food & Wine Classic in Aspen, Colorado.

That’ll get the ideas brewing.

Here’s how it works: Invitations are extended to the company’s top chefs, which require the chefs to register their entries three weeks ahead of the competition.  On a first come, first served basis, the chefs sign up for the category in which they want to compete.

The management team creates a schedule dictating the exact time that each dish must be completed, at which time it is served to a panel of Landry’s executives for judging.  Each entry is scored on a numerical scale for creativity, presentation, and flavor.

The genius of the whole setup is this: the judging is blind.  The executives have no idea who submitted which dish.  In addition to fairness and objectivity, this levels the playing field.  The young guns have an unbiased shot at making a name for themselves.  The reputations of the old dogs and the current darlings bear no weight.  They have every incentive to swing for the fence.

In other words, go big or go home.

Landry’s invited me to observe this year’s competition behind the scenes, which was quite an adventure for this humble home cook. I hadn’t been in a commercial kitchen since my waitressing days, and even back then, I never witnessed anything close to this magnitude.  I had the opportunity to get to know the chefs, learn about what inspires them, why they do what they do, how they developed their technique.  I loved all the trash talk; I loved how much they wanted to win.

It was inspiring.  It made me want to cook.  It made me want to bring my best, in the kitchen and in life, too.

But perhaps most importantly, it made me want to motivate and inspire those young guns back at the office to go big or go home.

 

[Note: A slightly modified version of this post was first published as Motivate Your Employees to Go Big or Go Home on Technorati, which is pretty cool.]

Lagniappe: Looking Back on WFI

An upside to having been around for two years is the ability to reference what has inspired me in the past.  Instead of just having a foggy sense of what I was up to last year and the year before, I can actually go look.  This must be why people keep journals — a discipline I have never mastered.

Two years ago, I wrote about the opening weekend of deer season, which is actually underway at this very moment.  I shared my own experience of deer hunting and the adventure of aging and butchering the venison at home.  Talk about eating locally!  Check it out here if you’re interested.

Last year, I was testing Thanksgiving recipes and stumbled across a sweet potato meringue pie, which isn’t something you see every day.  The recipe came together so easily and beautifully, that it occurred to me that the experience of making pies is vastly different than the process of creating a cake, which I wrote about here.

That’s also when I learned that Matt doesn’t like booze in his dessert, a fact that still baffles me.  Of course, that didn’t divert me from adding rum to the buttercream filling in the @#$%! ribbon cake, or making ice cream flavored with not one but two liquors.  And based on my dear friend Brooke’s request for bread pudding (in the comments on the apple galette post), I see a hard sauce in his future, too.

It’s a tough life he leads, but I think he’ll survive.

I honestly can’t believe we’re rounding third on 2011.  Hope all of you are well.