Posts Tagged baking recipes

Friendship (Through the Narrow Aisles of Pain)

A friend is a second self. –Aristotle

Planning a funeral is a lot like planning a wedding, only on three days’ notice. For Dad’s funeral, I needed a church, a priest, lectors, altar boys. Instead of groomsmen, I needed pallbearers.

I needed something to wear. I needed something for Dad to wear. I needed four thousand tissues and a metric ton of makeup.

When I took Dad’s best suit to the funeral home, I forgot to include a rosary to be placed in his hand. I intended to bring one to the wake service, but in the sad chaos of it all, it slipped my mind then, too. It was a small detail — nothing more than a symbol, really — but praying the Rosary was an important part of both my parents’ lives. Burying each of them with one was meaningful.

Thankfully, I remembered to bring it to the church on the day of the funeral. There were unending details to attend to that morning, but I managed to find five minutes that would allow me this indulgence, this one moment of closure. The funeral director wasn’t anywhere nearby; he was coordinating bigger pieces of our somber ritual, probably in the back of the church with the priest. I could have spent my precious five minutes tracking him down (and been diverted seven times in the process), or I could figure it out myself and know with certainty that it was done.

In our thirty five years together, Dad and I shared a lot of moments in that little church. During Mass, he would always offer me his hand, and I would always take it – a silent gesture of affection that we’d share during the Bible readings and through the homily.

Looking down at our clasped hands, it was almost comic how different they were. Mine are pale with transparent skin that shows a highway system of bluish green veins beneath.  Dad’s hands matched his dark complexion and were rough from a life spent working on tractors and cars. My hands are fairly long and slender; his, thick and compact – like the jaws of a vise. A gentle vise. A gentle vise that liked to be held and examined.

I don’t know how many Masses we attended together, holding hands, but that was our routine. Our little routine in this little church.

I was in robot mode when I walked over to place the rosary with Dad, more focused on all the remaining things to be done than on what I was actually doing. I was looking at his hands, trying to remember how a rosary is supposed to look, and then… I saw his hands. I snapped to the moment, and I really saw them. They were handsome, bordered by the cuffs of his suit jacket, those gentle calloused hands I had held so many Sundays and countless other times. His hands. Tears stung my eyelids; I thought my knees might buckle.

I tucked the rosary in as best I could, threading the beads through his palm and letting the crucifix lay gently across his knuckles. My fierce intent to make it look natural was ironic, given how entirely unnatural it all was. I hovered, staring, overanalyzing. Suddenly, Aunt Denise was standing next to me, saying that it looked perfect, just perfect. I felt reassured.

My work was done, but I wasn’t ready to leave him. I reached out and touched his hand again. It was ice cold — much colder than I had expected — but I didn’t care. It was still his. I examined it, for the last time. His calluses were still there, his skin still weathered and tough. His hands.

I felt feminine, nurturing – a woman looking after her father. I was making sure he was comfortable, while acutely aware that he wasn’t actually there. I was nurturing the shell of a man that I had known well and loved deeply.

I could have stood there for hours with him, but it was nearly time for the funeral to begin.  The priest and the family were waiting. I took a deep breath, turned — and literally walked into my friend Meredith. She’d been standing behind me when I thought I was all alone.

I looked up to explain, but her soft eyes told me she understood. She wrapped her arms around me and I lost my composure for a brief moment as she held me close.

We both knew it would be the last time I would see my father.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

When the ceremony was over, our family shuffled out of the church behind the priest, ahead of everyone else. We were suddenly standing in the sunshine; a beautiful day.

I felt a little lost, unsure of what to do next.

I turned and saw Lisa standing in the church yard with her infant son. She must have had to step outside to change him, or shoosh him, not realizing that she was planting herself exactly where I would need her a few moments later.

Her eyes were big, brimming with tears. I can’t imagine, her eyes told me, silently. But when I try, my heart aches and the tears come and I just really hurt for you.

I went to her and she pulled me in tight, her strong embrace having plenty of room for both me and her sweet boy. She touched my hair; it was invigorating to be loved like that, in that moment.  The rest of the day, including the burial, stretched out before me, and I was more than willing to borrow her strength.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I can recount a dozen more stories of how my friends rallied around me when Dad died.

How Leah instantly grasped the grief I was too shocked to yet feel.

How Andy held my hand that day.

How Jamie inspired me to somehow find paradise in the midst of my sorrow.

How Shana talked with me about things that only daughters who have lost their fathers too soon can really understand.

In the opening lines of her poem Solitude, Ella Wheeler Wilcox wrote, “laugh and the world laughs with you; weep and you weep alone.”  I love that piece for its harrowing insights about grief, but bless her heart, Ella must not have had friends like mine.

I weep, but I do not weep alone.

My second selves weep with me.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Solitude
By Ella Wheeler Wilcox

Laugh, and the world laughs with you;
Weep, and you weep alone.
For the sad old earth must borrow it’s mirth,
But has trouble enough of its own.
Sing, and the hills will answer;
Sigh, it is lost on the air.
The echoes bound to a joyful sound,
But shrink from voicing care.

Rejoice, and men will seek you;
Grieve, and they turn and go.
They want full measure of all your pleasure,
But they do not need your woe.
Be glad, and your friends are many;
Be sad, and you lose them all.
There are none to decline your nectared wine,
But alone you must drink life’s gall.

Feast, and your halls are crowded;
Fast, and the world goes by.
Succeed and give, and it helps you live,
But no man can help you die.
There is room in the halls of pleasure
For a long and lordly train,
But one by one we must all file on
Through the narrow aisles of pain.

 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I learned from my mother about the importance of having deep, meaningful friendships.  All her life, she maintained a wide and varied circle of people that she loved, and they loved her right back.

There’s a story about Mom and a lemon cake she encountered while on an outing with a group of girlfriends.  She and her friends loved the cake, and she vowed to replicate it when she got home, which she did.

Linda, one of the friends that was there that day, contributed the recipe for the lemon cake to our church’s 100th anniversary cookbook, in Mom’s honor.  She called it “Girlfriend’s Lemon Icebox Cake,” which makes me smile every time I see it.

I was inspired by this story of friendship to make mom’s icebox cake, but it calls for lemon cake mix and lemon instant pudding, which I don’t keep on hand.  What I did have on hand was a raft of Meyer lemons from my neighbors Joe and Janet — so I made these cupcakes instead.

Triple Lemon Cupcakes

(Adapted from Peace Meals, a gorgeous cookbook published in 2008 by the Junior League of Houston, a copy of which was given to me by my good friend, Jamie)

Cupcakes:
3 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, softened
1 1/2 cups sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
3 eggs, room temperature
16 ounces sour cream, room temperature
2 teaspoons finely shredded lemon zest

Lemon Curd:
5 egg yolks
1 cup sugar (if you’re using Meyers, taste them — if they’re sweet, you may want to cut the sugar back to 3/4 cup)
4 lemons, zested and juiced
1/2 cup (1 stick) butter, cut into pats and chilled

Frosting:
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, room temperature
3 cups powdered sugar
2 tablespoons Coffee Mate powdered creamer (it cuts the sweetness!)
3 teaspoons milk
1/4 cup Lemon Curd

For the cupcakes:
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line 24 standard muffin cups with paper baking liners (I prefer Reynolds brand double layered liners, foil with paper inside). In a medium bowl, whisk or sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In the large bowl of an electric mixer, beat the butter on medium high speed until creamy, about 30 seconds. Gradually add the sugar; beat on high speed until lightened in color and texture, at least 2 minutes and up to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla and then the eggs one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add the flour mixture in three parts, alternating with the sour cream in two parts, beating on low speed after each addition just until combined, creating a thick batter. Stir in the lemon zest. Spoon about 1/4 cup of the batter into each prepared cup. Bake about 20 to 25 minutes or until a wooden toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool completely.

For the lemon curd:
Combine the egg yolks, sugar, and lemon zest in a medium stainless steel or enamel saucepan. Whisk until smooth lightened in color, about 1 minute. Measure the lemon juice and, if needed, add enough cold water to reach 1/3 cup. Add the juice to the egg mixture and whisk again until smooth. Add the pats of butter, then cook over medium heat, whisking, until the butter is melted. Continue to whisk constantly until the mixture is thickened, allowing it to simmer gently for a few seconds. Scrape the curd into a clean bowl. Let cool, then cover with layer of plastic wrap directly on the surface of the curd. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. (It will continue to thicken when refrigerated.)

For the frosting:
Cream the butter on medium speed until light and fluffy. Gradually add the powdered sugar and powdered creamer, then add the milk and blend until smooth. Add the Lemon Curd and mix until well blended.

To assemble:
Scoop out the center of each cupcake using a melon baller, spoon, 1-inch biscuit cutter, or whatever tool you have on hand that will do the trick. Fill each cupcake center with the Lemon Curd. Top each cupcake with frosting, either piping through a bag (you can use a regular old zip-top bag with one of the corners snipped off) or with a butter knife.

Note: You might be wondering what to do with 24 little scraps of cake.  I had plans to make a parfait from mine, but my husband and my kiddo swiped them before I had a chance.  I imagine you won’t have a problem disposing of yours, either…

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Inferiority

Life is easier now that we can bake cookies together.

Motherhood doesn’t come easily to me.

Don’t get me wrong, The Boy is thriving and I love him more than I ever dreamed possible, but parenting just isn’t a natural talent of mine.

Remember when you learned to play basketball for the first time, in gym class, and you slowly realized that some people just don’t have any hand-eye coordination?  It’s sort of like that.  When my friends hear my questions and concerns and frustrations about being a mom, they’re thinking, Why can’t she just put the ball in the basket?

An example:  When The Boy was but a wee thing — a month old, perhaps — my friends encouraged me to venture out.  Start small, they said.  Run a quick errand, or get a cup of coffee.  You’ll be surprised at how easy it is.

So I did.  I made sure he had a full belly, then put him in a fresh outfit.  Perhaps more noteworthy, I put me in a fresh outfit.  I packed an extra set of everything and set out for our two mile journey to the nearest coffee shop.

The drive was pleasant enough.  It was a sunny day, and when I looked back every five seconds, The Boy was oblivious, content.

My friends were right, I thought, it’s nice to be out.  We arrived uneventfully at the coffee shop.  I unclicked his bucket seat and carried him in.

It was about two o’clock on a weekday afternoon.  Aside from the baristas banging around behind the bar, it was quiet.  On a momentary break from life, the patrons were all quietly reading or pecking on a gadget or sipping coffee.  It was an oasis.  We had all escaped, including me.  I was out.

I walked to the counter, gently set the bucket on the floor, and dug around for my wallet.  That’s when the dream started to unravel.

Just as the barista asked what she could get for me, The Boy started to whimper.  Oh crap.  I reached out with my foot and tipped the round-bottomed bucket ever so slightly, to make it rock, and then quickly ordered a medium coffee to go.  Maybe if I acted like I knew what I was doing, it would all be okay.

For his part, The Boy was not amused.  The whimper quickly turned into a fuss.  My shoulders crept skyward, toward my earlobes.  Please tell me this isn’t happening.

The fuss turned into a cry, which quickly escalated into a howl.  I tossed some money on the counter, grabbed the coffee, and then turned and froze, staring down at my son.  How was I going to carry this heaping bucket-o-Boy and a cup of hot coffee at the same time?  And even if I could manage that, how was I going carry all that AND get my keys out AND unlock my door AND heave him back into the car?  I needed another arm.  (Octopus mamas must have it soooo easy.)

"Coffee shops aren't my thing. I'd rather hang in the kitchen."

The Boy kept howling, red now.  The bubble of our communal oasis had been burst — pillaged, sacked, plundered.  I could feel the intensely hot laser beams from everyone’s eyeballs, staring.  Now that I think about it, this explains why I broke out into a sweat.  Will someone please remind me why hot coffee was a good idea?

I had to get out of there.  I tucked the handle of the bucket into the crook of my strong arm and grabbed the coffee with the other hand.  I lurched like a zombie towards the door — bucket-toting arm lifted for leverage, coffee arm almost fully extended in anticipation of the now-certain spill, which would surely land directly on my infant son’s face and scald him beyond recognition.  Really?, I chided myself.  Hot coffee?

Outside, scorching tears of frustration, embarrassment and ineptitude sprang from my eyes as I ditched the cup in the garbage can and continued toward the car.  Once there, I looked him over.  His diaper was dry, his belly still full.  Nothing was poking or pulling or pinching him.  Why was he screaming?  Had I somehow dislocated his arm?  Were we being pursued by machete-wielding guerrillas, unbeknownst to me?  I looked around, just to be sure.

I eventually gave up, clicked his bucket back into the car, and drove home.  He screamed the whole way.  In fact, he screamed so loud and for so long, that he started to lose his voice.  (I challenge you to find that in a parenting book.)

Against my better judgment, I’m going to be perfectly honest with you and admit to something unflattering and quite uncourageous.  The thought that was going through my head as I pulled into the driveway was this:

I went and had a BABY and now I’m stuck in this HOUSE for the rest of my LIFE.

I’m about as extroverted as they come.  The thought of having to choose between staying home and breaking out in hives from the stress of “being out” was unbearable.  I felt as though I’d just heard my own death knell.

Things got better, of course.  The Boy grew and changed.  I grew and changed.  I went back to work, which helped.  He learned to crawl, then walk, then talk.  He’s no less demanding now, actually, but at least we understand each other.

Here’s another unflattering admission:  When I’m in quiet public places, like coffee shops and churches and movie theaters, and I hear a baby screaming, I secretly like it.  Even more so when it’s a mother, and she looks flustered, mopping her brow.  Isn’t that terrible?!

I’m not taking joy in their frustration, mind you; I’m just relishing the fact that I’m not alone.

Actually, I like to think of it this way: I’m curing myself of a quite-serious inferiority complex, one fussy baby at a time.

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In hindsight, a tiny coffee shop was not the greatest venue for a first adventure – I didn’t realize just how loud a baby could be in small quiet space.

My second mistake was actually ordering coffee.  What I should have done is ask for a cookie – a highly portable, room temperature, easily-scarfed-if-I-suddenly-have-to-carry-my-kid cookie.

The problem is, food at coffee shops is generally miserable.  So The Boy and I made cookies ourselves, which I adapted from the November issue of Food & Wine magazine.

Cranberry Chocolate Chip Cookies

Adapted from Dried Cranberry and Chocolate Cookies, Food & Wine, November 2011

1 1/2 cups dried cranberries
2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 cup quick-cooking oats (or regular rolled oats)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon kosher salt
2 1/2 sticks unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup light brown sugar
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg, room temperature
1 large egg yolk, room temperature
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups semisweet chocolate chips


Preheat the oven to 325°F. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper.  Cover the cranberries in hot water and let soak for at least 5 minutes, but not more than 10 minutes.  Drain the cranberries; set aside.


Meanwhile, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, oats, baking powder, baking soda and salt. In a standing mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the butter and both sugars at medium speed until creamy, about 3-4 minutes. Add the egg followed by the egg yolk and vanilla, beating well between additions and scraping down the side of the bowl as necessary.  Add the flour mixture, chocolate chips and cranberries all at once and stir just until combined.


Spoon heaping teaspoons of the dough onto the baking sheets, 2 inches apart. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until the cookies begin to brown at the edges. Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets, then transfer them to a rack to cool completely.


Store in an airtight container.

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Three Phone Calls

I was in Galveston when I learned that Dad died.

I was having lunch at a restaurant with a big group of people, including my gracious hosts, when the phone rang.  It was a number I didn’t recognize, and not wanting to be rude, I let it go to voice mail.

Ten minutes later, the phone rang again as we were walking out.  This time, it was Matt.  I picked up.

“Are you in a place where you can talk?”

He had his serious, listen-to-me-carefully tone, which told me immediately that something was wrong.  It wasn’t The Boy, though — he was too composed for that.

“Yes,” I said.  Terse.  I know something’s up – out with it.

“I’m going to tell you exactly what I know, because the information I have isn’t very clear,” he said.

“Okay.  What’s wrong?”  Frustrated now, not with Matt, but with the situation.  Trying to control my voice.  Whatever this is, it isn’t his fault.

“I just talked to your brother.  I think your dad passed away.”

I’m walking as I hear this, trailing my hosts at a safe distance.  I stop.

“What?”

My eyes dart from left to right as my brain sifts this information.  I feel adrenaline wash over the lining of my gut like ice water. The coastal sunshine is suddenly intensely bright, the roar of the Gulf suddenly deafening.  Fight or flight.

“I can’t be sure.  Your uncle A.B. called Kirk, and Kirk called me.  All I know for certain is that there was an ambulance at your dad’s house.”

Left-right-left-right-left-right-left-right.

Andy is there, in the crowd with me.  He notices I’ve fallen behind.  I’m looking down, hiding from the blinding sun, but he sees my wild dilated eyes anyway.  Without looking, I reach for his hand.

“Hole up… ho-hole-hole up, guys,” he tells the others.  He stands there quietly, holding my hand. Watching my face.

“That was Matt,” I say, dazed.  “I think my dad died.”

Collectively, the group stands up taller, then steps in close.

“I’m okay to walk.  Let’s walk,” I say, meaning it.  Thankfully, they believe me.

“Andy, can you…?”

“Yes.  I’ll drive.”

**********************

A couple of weeks later, I scraped together all the emotional fortitude I had and made a phone call of my own.  I called Bob, who, to my knowledge, was the last person to see my dad alive.

Dad had been renovating his childhood home, which is a 100+ year old frame house that began its life as a one-room school.  It needed a lot of work, and being retired, Dad needed something to do.  It seemed right.

Bob was one of the contractors Dad had hired to help.  The day he died, Bob had come by the old house to discuss the project.  Bob pulled up in his truck, and Dad came out to say hello, and pretty soon they were standing around with their forearms dangling into the bed of the pickup, as men in these parts are wont to do.

Bob grew up nearby and knew the area well.  However, Bob was several years older than Dad, and despite the tiny size of the community, they’d never met until they started working together.  Standing around the truck that morning, they talked about old times, the history of the place, how much things had changed over the years.  Bob would tell me later that it was like they were reminiscing about a common history they didn’t have, as though they’d skipped rocks and picked cotton and swam in that old rice canal together as kids.

Bob had already completed the first phase of the project, which was to remove all the old existing insulation.  They discussed the next phase, whatever that was to be, and then Dad asked Bob how much he owed him for the work he’d already completed.  Bob told him the amount, Dad paid him, they exchanged a few more pleasantries, and then Bob left.

Some time later, maybe an hour, Dad called a second contractor named Luke.  Bob had recommended him to help Dad work on the windows in the old house.

While they were talking, Dad interrupted and told Luke that he would have to let him go, that he didn’t feel well.  Then Luke heard the phone fall, and the call dropped.

Luke could have done a lot of things at this point.  He could have shrugged and proceeded with his day.  Instead, he called Bob and told him what happened.

Bob was at another job site many miles away by this point, too far away to do anything.  Luckily, he remembered Dad explaining that he wouldn’t be able help with any of the physical labor on the house, because he had a bad heart.

He called 911.

Dad was gone by the time they arrived.

**********************

Calling Bob wasn’t easy, but I wanted to thank him for all he’d done.  I told him about my long-standing fear of something happening to Dad while alone, that he wouldn’t be able to call for help, and that he would suffer.  Thanks to Bob, I have the peace of knowing that his last day was a good one, and that it had happened quickly.

What I didn’t expect was for him to thank me.

He was like an angel, Bob said.  When we met, I saw his peaceful, happy face and I knew he was a man of God.

I must say, this isn’t what one expects when one phones an insulation contractor.

The first time I ever came out to the house, I climbed a ladder to have a look around in the attic.  When I looked down, he was bracing the ladder for me.  I didn’t ask him to, and he didn’t say anything — he just did it.  That thought doesn’t occur to most people, but he honestly cared about making sure I didn’t fall.

He went on.

When he asked how much he owed me, I expected him to say that he’d pay me later, or to give me the old check’s-in-the-mail routine.  But he wanted me to have what I’d earned.  I told him not to worry about it, that we’d settle up when the project was over, but he insisted on paying me on the spot.

Then he told me about their visit that morning, and how he’d never felt such an instant connection to someone he’d only just met.  It was a strange feeling, he said, to develop such a close friendship so fast.

I decided to tell him a few things about Dad, about what it was like to be his kid.  How reassuring and laid back he was, how he never liked to be in a hurry.

That’s when he thanked me.

Honey, I know I’m giving you the last pieces to the puzzle for that day, but you’re giving me puzzle pieces, too.  You’re confirming that he was an angel to me.  Meeting him and then losing him so quickly changed my life.  I think about him every single day.

What can you say when you hear that from a stranger about your dead father?  I tossed aside all that silly fortitude and stopped trying not to cry.

“He was a great man,” I squeaked out.  “And I loved him very much.”

I know you did, honey.  I’m sure you miss him.  I know I do.

**********************

About a week later,I was starting to get concerned about not doing my “grief work” — that I was squirreling away all my anguish and sadness to deal with later, and that later might never come.  I didn’t want to be stuck in the fog forever.

That’s when the dream came.

In my dream, I’m in my car, waiting at a red light.  The phone rings.

It’s Dad.

Hi, Daddy, I answer.

“It’s me again, Margaret,”  he says, chuckling.  A reference to the old Ray Stevens song.

I smile.

How are you?, I ask.

“I’m doin’ okay.  How are you?”

I’m alright.  I’ve just been really busy.  (I’m probating your estate, I think to myself – a reality I haven’t yet accepted.)

“How’s The Boy?”

Up to his old tricks, I say.  Still getting in trouble at school for sassing his teacher.

He laughs, hard, then trails off.

The Boy and I stopped by your house yesterday, I say.  This is my way of bringing it up, the fact that he’s gone. He was never good about broaching subjects.

Another pause.

“You’ll be fine, sweetie.”

I know, Daddy.  But I miss you.

“I miss you, too.”

What do we do with all of your things?  Like Grandpa’s old tractor?

“Kirk knows.  Matt can help you.”

I’m crying silently, hoping he can’t hear.

What about the land, Daddy?

“I thought maybe you’d want to put a nursery or an orchard out there.”

And just like that, I’m lying in my bed, awake. Then the real tears come, to match the ones in my dream.  I don’t sob, I don’t sniff, I don’t even blink much.  I stare at the ceiling while my eyes leak.  My pillow is wet.

An orchard.

In my mind’s eye, I see neat rows of trees.  As I walk among them, the rows snap together, longitudinally and diagonally, like the crosses at Arlington National Cemetery.

An orchard?

I see the four of us: Mom, Dad, Kirk, and me, walking with buckets, picking fruit from trees at a farm.  A memory from childhood.  I suddenly remember how much both of them loved trees.

An orchard?

Another flashback:  I see two of my uncles, walking with my parents among the acreage that we called the backyard.  They are carrying branches and putty knives and little pots of goo.

I ask Daddy what they’re doing.  He tells me they are grafting branches from other trees onto ours.

What’s grafting?  I ask.

“It’s kind of like gluing,” he says.

But why?

“Uncle David’s branches have better pecans than ours.  Now our trees will grow his pecans.”

Tree surgery.  My seven year old brain found this odd.

An orchard.

 **********************

I doubt that I’ll become a tree farmer anytime soon, but if I were to plant an orchard, I would probably choose pecan trees.  And what better way to showcase pecans than classic pecan pie?

This is my grandmother’s recipe.  I like it because it’s not too sweet, like many pecan pies can be — you don’t have to fight your way through all the sugar to taste the fruit.  A dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream sets it off perfectly.

Grandma Peltier’s Pecan Pie

3 eggs, room temperature, slightly beaten
2/3 cup light Karo corn syrup
2/3 cup dark Karo corn syrup
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour
3 tablespoons sugar
4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled to room temperature
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped pecans
About 1 cup pecan halves
Unbaked pie shell
Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream, for serving

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Combine eggs, syrups, flour, sugar, butter, and vanilla. Whisk until well combined, or beat on low speed of an electric mixer for about two minutes. Stir in chopped pecans.

Pour the mixture into the unbaked pie shell. Place the pecan halves atop the filling decoratively. Bake at 375°F for 15 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and bake another 15 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature again to 325°F and bake until center looks done (not shaky), about another 25 minutes, for a total baking time of about 55 minutes.

Remove from oven and let cool before slicing, to allow the filling to set.  Serve with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream — or if you’re feeling frisky, rum-brandy ice cream.

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Paradise

Don’t let that last post fool you.  I wrote most of it weeks ago, before my life changed.  Before Dad died.

In real time, I’m much more melancholy, as you might expect.  I vacillate between emotional devastation and numbing denial.  In fact, since the funeral, I’ve mostly been an automaton. A zombie. A shell of my usual self.

Apparently my mind wants no part of this whole grieving process, because I can’t string together a coherent thought for all the tea in China.  Call me, my brain said, when it’s over.  I can’t handle anymore.  I’ll be in Bora Bora.

The other day, I went into our guest bathroom without having any business there and randomly washed my hands.  Holding the towel, I asked my mirrored reflection why I had done so.  She didn’t have an answer.

Another time, while getting dressed, I packed a dopp kit for no reason.  Every item I used, I packed.  Shampoo, conditioner, comb, razor, toothbrush. All that.  When I was done, I zipped it up and carried it across the house.

The next morning, I couldn’t find anything.  I didn’t remember that I’d packed it all.  Matt saw my confusion and asked what was the matter.  I can’t find anything, I said, distressed.

“What anythings?”

My deodorant.  My face lotion.  My stuff.

His face softened.  He knew.

“I saw you packing it all yesterday.  I didn’t want to question you.”

I walked out to the garage, where the dopp kit was sitting, alone, in my car.  No suitcase. No clothes.  No real memory of putting it there.

Maybe my brain convinced the rest of me to make a run for Bora Bora.  Who knows.

Automaton.

Zombie.

That dopp kit thing happened two weeks ago.  Now…. now I don’t quite know what to do with myself.  I’m back at work, and everything is pretty much the same.  Except that nothing is the same, and it never will be again.

My good friend Jamie sent me a text.  It read: Paradise in the everyday.  You know that.

I knew, but I hadn’t been seeing it.  I didn’t have to look far.

 

“Mommy?”

Yes?

“I love you.”

Aw, I love you too, Sugar.

“I love you moah.”

Well, I love you all the way to the moon.

“And back.”

Paradise.  Every day.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I liked how the combination looked on Eileen's pretty blue plate.

I’ve never been less interested in eating and more interested in cooking than I have been lately.  I wouldn’t have guessed that.  Honestly, it’s a little weird.

When Mom died, my primary concern was Dad.  What did he need?  How would we manage?  How could I help?  Cooking was not on my radar at all.

I didn’t think anything of it then, but that seems like a luxury now, to have him to be concerned about.

This time, it’s different.  Maybe cooking is a predictable, known thing for me in this strange post-parental world I now dwell in.  Maybe cooking connects me to the memories.  Maybe I don’t know what else to do with myself.

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Mom adored homemade ice cream.  Dad loved apple pie

Me, I can’t seem to leave well enough alone.  My favorite dish is the one I haven’t tried to make yet.

So it seemed natural to make a an apple galette instead of a perfectly good pie, and add booze to some perfectly wonderful ice cream.  What resulted seemed to me to represent the three of us on a plate. 

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A galette is essentially a free-form pie, without the pesky dish.  The flavor profile is very simple — just butter, sugar, and cinnamon — and the proportions of crust to filling much closer to 1:1 than with pie.  In my world, that’s a good thing.

Apple Galette

Adapted from Joy of Cooking

Pastry dough for 1 pie crust
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
4 tablespoons sugar, divided
2 large firm apples (I prefer Granny Smith), peeled, cored, and sliced very thinly
1/8 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven.  Preheat the oven to 425 F.

On a sheet of parchment paper, roll the crust out into a 12-inch round.  Brush the crust with a thin layer of melted butter, and reserve the rest.  Sprinkle the crust with one tablespoon of the sugar.

Transfer the paper with the dough to a baking sheet.  Layer the apples on the crust, leaving at least a 1-inch border around the edges.  If you’re feeling fancy, arrange the apples in a pretty overlapping designs; if you’re not, just kind of toss them in there.  Fold the dough border up over the apples, again making it as pretty as you please.

Combine the remaining three tablespoons of sugar with the cinnamon.  Drizzle all but about 2 teaspoons of the remaining butter over the apples, then sprinkle with the cinnamon-sugar mixture.

Bake at 425 F until the pastry begins to brown, about 20 minutes.  Reduce the oven temperature to 350 F and bake until the pastry is crisped and golden brown, about another 20-30 minutes.

Remove from the oven to a rack.  Brush the apples with the remaining butter, and let cool.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

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The alcohol in this boozy ice cream keeps the texture very soft — it’s a perfect accompaniment to the slew of upcoming holiday desserts.  The addition of nutmeg gives it the flavor of egg nog; dial the amount up or down (or leave it out) to suit your tastes. You could also vary the spirits to mix things up a bit.

Rum-Brandy Ice Cream

I stashed some in my in-law's freezer.

Adapted from Williams-Sonoma’s Thanksgiving

2 1/2 cups half-and-half
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
4 egg yolks
2/3 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 tablespoons brandy

In a heavy-bottom saucepan, combine the half-and-half and cream. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until tiny bubbles start to form around the edges and the mixture reaches a temperature of 170 F.

Meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks until smooth. Add the sugar and nutmeg and whisk vigorously until the mixture is thick and pale yellow. When the cream mixture reaches 170 F, slowly pour it into the egg yolk mixture while whisking continuously.

Return the combined mixture to the pan over low heat. Continue to cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon and reaches a temperature of 185 F. Do not bring the mixture to a boil.

Pour the mixture into a clean bowl and cool to room temperature. Stir in the vanilla. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap, pressing it directly onto the surface of the custard to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate overnight, or for a minimum of 2 hours.

Freeze in an ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions until softly frozen. Add the rum and brandy and continue to churn until the ice cream freezes further. (Again, it will probably not freeze solid and remain very soft.) Transfer to an airtight storage container, cover, and freeze overnight before serving.

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The @#$%! Cake

Friends, have I got a story for you.

It’s a story of tenacity.  Perseverance.   Winning.

It’s a story of a street-wise Chicago teen who moves to a small repressed town where dancing and rock music are illegal.  Against all odds, he… oh, sorry.  Wrong story.

It’s a story about me and a @#$%! chocolate cake.

You know the one.  The one on the December cover of Bon Appetit magazine.  The one I tried to make last December and failed miserably.  Yeah, that one.

The truth is that I was doomed before I began, and it was all Matt’s fault.  He happened to be piddling in the kitchen while I prepared my mise en place. I distinctly remember buttering and flouring the cake pans and telling him, “You know, I’m amazed that I haven’t had to make any of these Bon Appétit cover recipes twice.”

I actually said that.  Out loud.  To another human being.

I thought I had it in the bag.  How many cakes have I baked in my life?  After my inaugural turkey, surely this would be a no brainer, right?  I mean, can I get an amen?!

Now, Matt’s a stoic guy.  He doesn’t always have something to say.  In fact, about half the time he replies to me with a “Humph.”

Literally, “Humph.”

In MattSpeak, that translates to, “I have understood and acknowledged your statement; however, I have nothing further to contribute to this topic.”

On occasion, though, he comes up with a perfect little quip, chock full of simple wisdom.  This was one of those occasions.

Let’s rewind a bit and get the full effect:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Laura [buttering and flouring a cake pan, quite satisfied with herself]: “You know, I’m amazed that I haven’t had to make any of these Bon Appétit cover recipes twice.”

Matt [piddling, aloof]: “Seems like you’d wanna wait until you’ve actually finished all twelve of them to make a statement like that.”

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Do you have ANY idea what it’s like to live with someone who’s nearly always right?

Or, for if you’re the superstitious type: Can you BELIEVE he jinxed me like that?  Gah.

And so it began.  The batter came together easily enough, went into the pan easily enough, slid into the oven easily enough.  So far, so good.

But when the cake layers were done, I thought it might be fun to drop one of them on the floor.  You know, just to remind myself what startled and horrified feel like when experienced simultaneously.

Buttercream: spackling of champions.

The good news was that I dropped the pan right side up, where it landed completely flat on its bottom, like a brick.  The poor cake, piping hot from the oven, scrambled like eggs inside the pan.  After the requisite muttering under my breath, I told myself that it was nothing that an advanced cooling technique and some buttercream spackling couldn’t hide.

No problem.  I got this.

Speaking of buttercream, it had its share of issues too — it separated while beating in the butter.  It was looking a little iffy there for a minute, but I warmed and whisked it a little and managed to recover.

No problem.  I got this.

Then came the glaze.  Ohhhhh, the glaze.  I made it twice, and failed twice, which is kind of amazing considering that it requires all of one step: melt stuff.  The first time, I melted the stuff, and then waited for it to thicken, which the recipe said would take about 5 minutes.  After 30 minutes, I tried chilling it, to no avail. It was the roughly the consistency of water.

After checking, I realized that the recipe states “1 ½ sticks,” but I read it to be 1 ½ cups, which is 3 sticks.  Twice as much.  No wonder.

So I made it again.  The second take thickened enough to go on the cake, but something was still off.  It was thick, but kind of gloppy and didn’t spread well.

I decided to move on.  The chocolate ribbons would distract the eye and cover all my sins.

No problem.  I got this.

Well, the @#$%! ribbons didn’t turn out to be the @#$%! panacea I’d been counting on.  They were floppy and flimsy and structurally unsound.  I added powdered sugar.  I froze them.  I tried everything I could think of, but there was no three-dimensional bow in this cake’s future.

Uhhhh, problem.  I don’t got this.

I had a bona fide cake wreck on my hands.  (Before you ask, all photographic evidence has been destroyed.)

So, what happened?  At first, I wasn’t sure.  I checked the recipe’s comments on the Bon Appetit site, to see if there had been a misprint or some such.  I grumbled as I read how easy and fabulous it was for everyone else.

I mulled it over.  I re-read the recipe.  I couldn’t figure it out.

Then, two nights later, I sat bolt upright in bed out of a deep sleep.  I knew the answer.

I had incorrectly measured the chocolate.

Mise en place, Take Two.

I had used a different brand of chocolate than I normally do.  My usual brand comes in 1-ounce squares, but the brand I used came in ½-ounce squares.  So, while I counted out what I thought was the correct number of ounces, in reality I had only used half the necessary amount of chocolate – in both the @#$%! glaze and the @#$%! ribbons.

It was a total rookie mistake.

That’s the thing I like about baking – it’s a personal barometer.  If my head isn’t clear, I make mistakes.  I drop things.  I mis-read recipes.  I lose stuff.

Once I realized the chocolate problem, and stopped to think about all the other things I’d done wrong, I realized how cluttered my mind was, how stressed I’d been.

You may have noticed that I started posting fewer entries about that time – I needed to regroup, relax, get my head on straight.  It took a while, but it worked – and then my world kind of blew up.

Once again, I needed to regroup, relax, get my head on straight.    And once again, life settled down.

By then it was September.  Yikes.  Not sure how that happened, but I never lost sight of the @#$%! chocolate cake I wanted to remake. My birthday of my lovely mother-in-law, Eileen, is in September, and I saw my opportunity.

I made the cake.  Again.  This time, with my head on straight.

It was a bit of work, but each step was pretty easy, especially when you measure correctly and aren’t burdened with having to recover from, say, dropping the @#$%! thing.

And I have to say, it was quite lovely.  Dense and highly spiced, it was a sneak preview of the flavors of Christmas.  I felt vindicated.  Victorious.  Redeemed.

Two weeks later, my world blew up again when my dad died suddenly.  (That might be the understatement of the century, actually – but you get the idea.)

I’m learning a hard lesson: this is life.  Up, down, sideways.  Sometimes backwards.  But the important thing is to keep putting one foot in front of the other, no matter how strong the headwind.

Why?  Because I’ve seen the alternatives.  They aren’t pretty.

And they don’t get you any cake.

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Happy Birthday, Mom

Sweet roll dough in my maternal grandmother's bowl, after the first rise.

Friday was Mom’s birthday.  She would have been 64 years old.

Sometimes I allow myself to stop and wonder what life would be like if she were still here, if she’d never had cancer.

My brother has four children, and the two older ones knew my mother well.  There’s no question what kind of grandma she would have been to The Boy, because I’ve seen it.  I don’t have to wonder when or how she would have guided me into motherhood, because I know.  It’s just a matter of letting myself go there.  And it hurts.

It hurts because I remember how Mom bought umpteen gajillion baby outfits and toys when my sister-in-law was pregnant.  This isn’t all that remarkable, except that these toys and outfits were garage sale finds.  Brand new, tags still on the clothes, toys still in boxes.  Heaps of the stuff so tall that she delivered them in garbage bags because she couldn’t find enough boxes and shopping bags.  Here, she would tell my sister-in-law, I found some baby things you might be able to use.  And it would turn out to be all the clothes a baby would probably ever need for the first two years of life.  For cents on the dollar.  Mom was practical that way.

It hurts because I remember that Mom started planning annual family retreats for all of us when the grandkids came along.  She’d find a neat little town somewhere down the coast, and we’d congregate there, eating and fishing and antiquing and working on jigsaw puzzles with infinitesimally small pieces.  Why?  Just because.  Mom was sentimental that way.

It hurts because she always had an adventure for the kids at the ready, just waiting for the right moment to spring it on them.  For example, my niece, the oldest, loves dresses and barrettes and costumes and glitter.  For the family retreat the summer she was four, Mom brought a wooden box filled with material of all sizes and colors, with giant safety pins and clothespins and measuring tapes and yards of lace and trim. The emptied box became a dressmaker’s pedestal, and my niece played fashion designer and spent the whole weekend bossing and outfitting her models with flair.  Mom was creative that way.

It hurts because I have these memories.  If I couldn’t remember, life would be easier — the pain would be gone.  But, so would the pleasure.  So would the inspiration.

To be honest, I’m mortified that I might forget.  So I go there.  And it hurts.

Rolled and ready for the second rise.

But you know what?  I’m still discovering my mother.  I’m still meeting friends of hers I didn’t know and hearing stories about her that I’ve never heard.  I’m still finding recipes she loved.  I’m still reading letters she wrote.  I didn’t expect that.  I expected the grief, to be sure, but I didn’t expect to still be getting to know her.

It feels a little like cheating.

And you know what else?  Sometimes she visits me, and that hurts worse than the memories.  I’ve already told you about our late goodbye, months after she died.  There have been other visions, too — and dreams.  Dreams so vivid that it takes me a couple of hours after waking to sort out where reality ended and the dream began.  Disturbingly wonderful visits, they are.

I hope they never end.

Happy birthday, Mom.

I miss you.  I love you.  Pray for me.

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You know that feeling when you see a movie or read a book and it immediately reminds you of someone?  I do that with food all the time.  I’ll see bread pudding and think of Dennis (it’s his favorite).  I’ll taste a risotto and remember how much better my friend Jessica’s is.  (It’s a sickness, I know.)

When I saw a recent slideshow on Food & Wine’s website about brunch ideas, including these raspberry-swirl sweet rolls, I immediately thought of Mom.  She had a raging sweet tooth, was a sucker for classic combinations of sweet and tart, and loved the challenge of a good pastry.  I once asked her to pick her favorite all time flavor.

Ever?, she asked. 

Ever.

Just one?, she asked.

One favorite.  Just one.

A pause, and then the answer: Raspberry.

If she were still here, I’d have made these for her birthday.

 

Second rise complete, ready for the oven.

Raspberry-Swirl Sweet Rolls

From Grace Parisi, Food & Wine Magazine

 

Dough

1 cup milk
2/3 cup sugar
1 1/2 tablespoons active dry yeast
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
4 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

Filling

One 10-ounce package IQF (Individually Quick Frozen) raspberries, not thawed
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon cornstarch

Glaze

3/4 cup confectioners’ sugar
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 1/2 tablespoons heavy cream

 

In a small saucepan, warm the milk over moderately low heat until it’s 95°. Pour the warm milk into the bowl of a standing electric mixer fitted with the dough hook and stir in the sugar and yeast. Let stand until the yeast is foamy, about 5 minutes. Add the softened butter, eggs, grated lemon zest and sea salt. Add the flour and beat at medium speed until a soft dough forms, about 3 minutes. Increase the speed to medium-high and beat until the dough is soft and supple, about 10 minutes longer.

Scrape the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead it with your hands 2 or 3 times. Form the dough into a ball and transfer it to a lightly buttered bowl. Cover the dough with plastic wrap and let stand in a warm place until doubled in bulk, 1 to 2 hours.

Line the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with parchment paper, allowing the paper to extend up the short sides. Butter the paper and sides of the pan. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and, using a rolling pin, roll it into a 10-by-24-inch rectangle.

In a medium bowl, toss the frozen raspberries with the sugar and cornstarch. Spread the raspberry filling evenly over the dough. Tightly roll up the dough to form a 24-inch-long log. Working quickly, cut the log into quarters. Cut each quarter into 4 slices and arrange them in the baking pan, cut sides up. Scrape any berries and juice from the work surface into the baking pan between the rolls. Cover the rolls and let them rise in a warm place until they are puffy and have filled the baking pan, about 2 hours.

Preheat the oven to 425°. Bake the rolls for about 25 minutes, until they are golden and the berries are bubbling. Transfer the pan to a rack to cool for 30 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the confectioners’ sugar with the butter and heavy cream until the glaze is thick and spreadable.

Invert the rolls onto the rack and peel off the parchment paper. Invert the rolls onto a platter. Dollop glaze over each roll and spread with an offset spatula. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Make Ahead: The recipe can be prepared through Step 4. Cover the rolls, refrigerate overnight and then return to room temperature before baking.

Variation: The sweet rolls can be filled with a variety of frozen fruit. Try blackberries, strawberries, blueberries or chopped sweet cherries.

 

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Long Distance (Food of) Love

Before and after streusel-fication.

A few weeks ago, Leah came to visit.

It wasn’t long after we moved back in from the Great Flood Recovery Project.  Boxes abounded.  Stuff was missing.  Everything was askew.  Not the ideal time for house guest, but Leah isn’t a house guest.  She’s my sister, except she’s my cousin — but in my heart, she’s my sister.

One thing the Great Flood taught me is how much I’ve changed in the past decade or so of my life.  I used to thrive on chaos and thirst for change.  During college and early adulthood, I can’t tell you how many times I moved, changed jobs, changed majors, changed everything.  I still have that visceral need to have lots of balls in the air, but I require a heck of a lot more order and predictability than I did back then.

When The Boy was The Baby and had just learned to crawl, it took him 0.002 seconds to find those little padded foamy cushion thingys on the inside corners of our kitchen cabinets.  He plucked them from their highly functional placements, and then he ate them.

Now, had he been a second or third child, I can easily see how this might be regarded with some level of tolerance.  Or overlooked with a little humor, even: Oh honey, let the boy have his fun and ingest inedible objects.  They’re clearly not a choking hazard!   But being a first-born to two left-brained dorks — err, one left-brained dork and an actually very cool engineer/entrepreneur who knows pretty much everything about almost everything — this was not to be.

The Baby was informed that he was heretofore NOT to ingest any more of those foamy cushion thingys.  I swear he looked me in the eye with defiance as he plucked the next one and popped it into his mouth like a Tic Tac.

Apparently babies don’t really observe authoritative mandates, even from those upon whom they are 100% dependent.  Huh.

So, all the foam cushion thingys were removed, much to my chagrin.  Chagrin for two reasons: 1) I’m not big on removing each and every little thing that might tempt a kid, because I generally think children can and should learn their boundaries, and 2) the members of my household, present company included, apparently enjoy slamming cabinet doors.  SCHLAP!  I jumped a little every time it happened.  So. Annoying.

Fast forward two years, and one of the The Boy’s favorite pastimes is opening cabinet doors and seeing how hard he can slam them.  And dang if he doesn’t wear that same look of defiance when he does it.

One recent day, he and I were out running errands.  On a whim, I made an unannounced stop. 

Mommy, are we going to the Orange Store? 

Yes, Baby, we’re going to the Orange Store.  It’s called Home Depot.

MAMA!  I toleyoo, don’t call me Baby! 

If you’d like to say that with nice words, I might listen.

Mama, don’t call me Baby.

Please?

Please.

That’s better.

(This is my life now.)

So, we marched into the Orange Store, located the Padded Foamy Cushion Thingy section, and we bought replacements.  I have to admit, I got a little excited.

We went home and both had a little treat.  The Boy climbed into his chair at the kitchen table and had his way with a popsicle, and I went around my kitchen, sticking Padded Foamy Cushion Thingys any- and everywhere they might belong.  Then I test-slammed some cabinet doors, and reveled in the fact that the SCHLAP! had been downgraded to a dull thud.

I swear, my heart skipped a beat.

It skipped a beat because I had the presence of mind to run an unscheduled errand that I’ve been meaning to get to for months.  It skipped a beat because I had the time to devote to such a menial-yet-meaningful task.  It skipped a beat because it was a sign that maybe — just  maybe! — life was getting back to normal.  Hell, my heart skipped a beat.  It had been a while.

I made some with blueberries...

But Leah visited before all that order had been restored.  And in her perfectly wonderful sister-cousin way, she said, “Laura, this is the messiest I’ve ever seen your house.  And I like it.

She and I somehow managed to spend hours together that we didn’t have during that short weekend trip.  It was wonderful, actually.

Somewhere along the way she passed by my fruit bowl, which was full of peaches.  Her back was to me, and I knew before she turned what she would say.

Oh, Lawwra. (She’s one of the few people in my life who pronounce my name correctly.)   Do you remember those muffins?!

I smiled, because I knew it was coming.  She mentions them any time we are both in the proximity of peaches or muffins.

Oh yes, I said, I remember.

A couple of weeks later, I shipped her a baker’s dozen of those peach muffins, the ones she loves so much.  They weren’t as good as the time she ate them fresh from my oven, but no matter.  I remember, my gesture said.  And I get you.  Thank you for loving me.

Friends, I’m sure someone you love lives farther away than you’d like.  Maybe a special kid you know is away at college for the first time.  Maybe you have a Leah who lives a couple of hundred miles away.  Maybe you have a neighbor who could use a pick-me-up.

And maybe you’ve thought about dropping them a note in the mail.

Maybe you should drop them some muffins, too.

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And some without.

The guy manning the FedEx desk kind of flipped out over my Food of Love package.  I placed before him two zippered plastic bags full of muffins, lined with paper towels.

Can you box these up and send them to someone for me?, I asked.

Wait, did you make these?!, came the reply.

Yes I did, actually.

Do I smell cinnamon?

Yes.  And vanilla bean.

Wow, someone really special must be on the receiving end of THIS.

Why yes. Yes, she is.  How much do I owe you?

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The first time I made these years ago, it was for no better reason than to test a good-lookin’ recipe. Leah was in dental school nearby, and dropped in to say hello.  Not having a better use for a couple of dozen muffins, I gave them to her to share at the dental office where she was working.  And now, they are the stuff of legend.

Breakfast Muffins
from Martha Stewart Living, June 2002

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1 1/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
2/3 cup sugar
2/3 cup milk, room temperature
1 large egg, room temperature
1 1/4 cups fruit and/or nuts, such as blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, or peaches
Streusel (see separate recipe below)

Preheat oven to 400°F.  Butter a standard muffin tin.  Combine flour, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt in a large bowl; whisk to combine.

In a medium bowl, combine butter, vanilla bean scrapings, sugar, milk, and egg; whisk to combine.  Fold butter mixture and fruit into flour mixture; use no more than ten strokes.

Spoon 1/4 cup batter into each prepared cup; press 2 tablespoons streusel on top of each.  Bake until tops are golden, 15 to 17 minutes.  Remove from oven; let cool in pan 15 to 20 minutes before transferring to a wire rack.  Serve warm or at room temperature.

Yield: 12 standard muffins

 

Muffin Streusel

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2/3 cup all-purpose flour
2/3 cup confectioners’ sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
Pinch of salt

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl, and mix with your fingers until mixture is moist and crumbly.

Yield: enough for 12 standard muffins

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When Life Gives You Broken Cake, Make A Trifle

Subject Line: Cake. "Call me."

I’m normally an optimistic, go-get-‘em type of person. I read somewhere once that we should count our blessings, not our troubles, and I try my best to live that way.

But sometimes I need to sit down and have a good cry.

I was recently on an elevator with a middle-aged woman. During our ride, which spanned about 25 floors, I caught a long glance of her. She was exhausted.

I don’t mean college-hell-week exhausted, or I-stayed-out-all-night-partying exhausted, or parent-of-a-child-under-age-two exhausted. She was trim and well-dressed, but she gripped the rail in the elevator a little too tightly. She sighed a little too deeply. Her eyes blinked a little too slowly and stayed closed a little too long.

Just hang on, she seemed to be thinking, the day is almost over. How many times had she given herself that pep talk? What weight was she carrying? Her load seemed heavy.

I don’t know that woman, and I’ll probably never see her again. But she reminded me that we each carry our own brand of troubles — a unique and invisible cross. Some are small and easily managed, some are tremendous and back-breaking. But we all have one.

They’re invisible, so we forget. I forget.

I forget that, outside of a very short list of people, I really have no idea what size anyone’s cross is — or perhaps more importantly, how equipped they are to carry it.

Often, I forget about my own cross.

And actually, the forgetting is usually my own doing. When a painful thought comes to mind, I can physically feel myself suppressing it, without really deciding to. It’s just like swallowing a lump in my throat to keep from crying – a subconscious mechanism to defend my composure.

But then, something will prick through the defense. I’ll see a woman in an elevator, and for all I truly know about her, she’s the most carefree and content human being on earth. But that’s not what I see. I see exhaustion, I see confusion, I see pain. I won’t realize until much later that I was actually seeing myself.

That’s when I know it’s time to have that cry I was telling you about.

I stop, put down my cross, and crumple against it. I take a good long look at it – it bears my old scars and my open wounds, my sorrows and regrets, my shortcomings, my pain. Worry. Anxiety. Fear. I acknowledge, wincing, that it’s really all really real. This is part of who I am. This is the cross I carry.

I remind myself that the appropriate response to injury is not to lash out or seek revenge. It’s not my job to make all things right, to put things back where they should be – and even if it were my job, I wouldn’t be qualified to do it. I would make the wrongs wronger. It is the very definition of futility.

No, the appropriate response to injury is to be hurt. To allow myself to be injured. That’s harder that it sounds. It requires vulnerability, admission, acceptance, and pain.

After all the tears are out, and maybe after pitying myself for a short while, I pull myself back together. Then comes the critical part: I pick up my cross and I keep going.

If I’m lucky – or, better said, if I do it right – I will have learned something in the process.

“Finally, all of you, be like-minded, be sympathetic, love one another, be compassionate and humble. Do not repay evil with evil or insult with insult. On the contrary, repay evil with blessing, because to this you were called so that you may inherit a blessing.” -1 Peter 3:8

 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Subject Line: Success!

Usually when I sit down to write to you, I have at least an idea of what I want to say, and certainly the recipe in mind that goes with it.  Not so this time.

I sat down to have a good cry, and this is what came out.  Which is all well and good, but what the heck kind of recipe goes with this part of life?

And then suddenly, I knew.

I recently attended two funerals in the span of a week, which is part of the emotional weight I was carrying.  After the wake for the first funeral, I saw an email on my phone from my friend Joy, subject line: Cake, with a photo of a cake attached.  She was having trouble, it read.  Cake trouble.  Call me.

At first glance, when the cake photo was a thumbnail measuring approximately 2 microns by 4 microns, it looked lovely.  Black forest, cherries, chocolate shavings.  Hello, beautiful.  I wondered what the problem could be?

Then I opened the attachment, and boom!  Three fissures had split her cake almost exactly into thirds.  Cake chasms, they were.

“This is for a colleague at the office, for his birthday… tomorrow!  What do I do?” she asked.  She’d already tried inserting skewers to knit it back together (which you can see if you look closely at the photo).  She also tried spackling the layers together with more icing, but it had a whipped cream base, and it was too loose to do much good.  I looked at the clock.  9:00 pm.  Too late for another attempt.

Having ruined puh-lenty o’ cakes in my life, I told her what any baker would:  make a trifle.

What’s a trifle?

It’s a chunked up cake in a bowl, usually sprinkled with liquor or other highly flavored liquid, and layered with whatever filling or pudding type substances you have on hand, and topped with whipped cream.

Hmmm.  How do I make one?

Find the prettiest bowl you have, preferably a clear glass one.  Take a large serving spoon and start dishing chunks of cake into the bowl, until you’ve made a layer.  Add a layer whipped cream or filling or whatever you have around.  Repeat until you’re out of cake or near the top of the bowl.  Finish with whipped cream and more cherry filling.  Shave more chocolate on top.  Pretend you did it on purpose.

You really think that will work?

Yes!  And while your co-workers ooh and ahh over the deliciousness of it all, you can explain what a trifle is.  They’ll never know.  You’ll be a genius.

A couple of hours later, I received another email.  Subject line: Success!, and a photo of a pretty darn handsome trifle attached.  Success.  Shared success.  It lifted my spirit.

I hope it lifts yours.

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I can relate to having high hopes and expectations dashed when a cake doesn’t work out — especially a birthday cake.  I made a lime chiffon cake for Eileen, my mother-in-law, a few years ago, and luckily it turned out well.  In fact, it was so pretty, I wish I’d put it on a pretty cake plate instead of my portable cake saver thingy.

However, if it had collapsed, split, or been struck by lightning, I would have made a batch of lime curd and turned it into a trifle (and still had fun decorating the top the same way).

Fresh Lime Chiffon Cake
From Cooking Light Magazine, June 2006

FILLING:
1 teaspoon finely grated lime rind
1/4 cup fresh lime juice (about 2 limes)
1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

CAKE:
Cooking spray
1 tablespoon cake flour
2 cups sifted cake flour (7 1/2 ounces)
1 1/4 cups sugar, divided
2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons canola oil
1/3 cup fresh lime juice (about 3 limes)
3 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon finely grated lime rind
1 teaspoon pure lemon extract
3 egg yolks
8 egg whites
1 teaspoon cream of tartar

FROSTING:
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons lime juice (about 1 lime)
2 1/2 cups fat-free whipped topping, thawed*
Fresh mint sprigs (optional)
Fresh blueberries (optional)
Lime wedges (optional)

(*Naturally, whipped heavy cream would be better… )

To prepare the lime filling, combine 1 teaspoon lime rind, 1/4 cup lime juice, and sweetened condensed milk in a small bowl, stirring until blended. Cover and chill 3 hours.

Preheat oven to 325°. To prepare cake, coat bottoms of 3 (8-inch) round cake pans with cooking spray (do not coat sides of pans); line bottoms with wax paper. Coat wax paper with cooking spray; dust with 1 tablespoon flour.

Lightly spoon 2 cups cake flour into dry measuring cups, and level with a knife. Combine 2 cups cake flour, 1 cup sugar, baking powder, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large bowl, stirring with a whisk until well combined.

Combine oil, 1/3 cup juice, 3 tablespoons water, 1 teaspoon rind, lemon extract, and egg yolks in a medium bowl, stirring with a whisk. Add oil mixture to flour mixture; beat with a mixer at medium speed until smooth.

Place egg whites in a large bowl; beat with a mixer at high speed until foamy. Add cream of tartar; beat until soft peaks form. Gradually add remaining 1/4 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon at a time, beating until stiff peaks form. Gently stir one-fourth of egg white mixture into flour mixture; gently fold in remaining egg white mixture.

Divide cake batter equally among prepared pans, spreading evenly. Break air pockets by cutting through batter with a knife. Bake at 325° for 20 minutes or until cake springs back when lightly touched. Cool in pans for 10 minutes on a wire rack; remove from pans. Remove wax paper from cake layers. Cool completely on wire rack.

To prepare frosting, combine 3 tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons lime juice in a small glass bowl. Microwave at high for 30 seconds or until sugar dissolves. Cool completely. Fold into whipped topping.

To assemble cake, place 1 cake layer on a plate; spread half of filling over cake layer. Top with second layer, remaining half of filling, and third layer. Spread frosting over top and sides of cake. Garnish with mint, blueberries, and lime wedges, if desired. Store cake loosely covered in refrigerator for up to 3 days. Slice cake into wedges.

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Don’t wait for a ruined cake to make a trifle, which is a traditional English dessert.  Saveur Magazine featured a killer-looking trifle on last year’s December cover.  And don’t let the special bowl scare you away, either.  You can use a regular bowl, like Joy did, or you can make the small investment in a trifle bowl.  We received one from our friends Travis and Tara as a wedding gift, and I use it all the time… for trifles, and fruit salads, and banana pudding, and layered salad, and… and… and… you get the idea.  Are you sold yet?

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Who Am I To Judge?

I was in college, I think.  Either that, or a freshly minted graduate.  Early 20s, anyway.  Mom and I had just watched a television biography of a famous performer… Judy Garland, maybe?  I can’t recall the setup, just the conversation.

During the interview, the subject said she’d been singing and dancing all her life, whether onstage in front of thousands, or in the living room for her family.  Performing was in her blood.  It was who she was.  She was lost without it.

I remember sighing heavily when the program was over, and my mother — ever the blunt one — asking simply, “What?”  As in, that was delightful and entertaining.  I like her.  What’s your problem?

I told her I wanted to feel that passionate about something.  I hadn’t been doing any one thing since time immemorial. I was jealous.

Mom just kind of gaped at me.  In hindsight, I know she was waiting for a punch line.  When she realized none was coming, she said, “Laura Denise.”  An admonishment, it was — fully encapsulated within my name.

“What?” came my innocent reply.

She scoffed at me then, rolling her eyes. Annoyed.

“What?” I repeated.Tell me.

“Were you not cracking eggs at age 2?”  Hello.  Are you really this dense?

“Oh.  Well.  I guess I like to cook.  Yeah, or bake.  I don’t know.”

“You don’t know?” Her feathers were getting ruffled.  I changed the subject.

Food had never occurred to me as a real hobby, much less a life-long passion. It’s more like a way of thinking: a lens through which I see the world. It’s akin to suggesting that I’m obsessed with breathing oxygen — I don’t think about it, it’s just what I do.

I had a similar moment recently when asked to judge a pie contest at the Brazoria Heritage Day Celebration. Who, me? Surely they would want someone more qualified. Someone who has been baking a really long time. Someone who has eaten lots of pie over the years.

Oh, wait.

Having never officially judged anything in my life, I had no idea how to go about formally assessing a piece of pie. My initial plan was to take two bites of each entry. That should cover it, right?

There were nineteen entries, which seemed like a manageable number until I did some quick pie math: two bites of each meant thirty eight bites of pie. Assuming that a typical piece of pie is consumed in about ten bites, that means… good grief! I was about to eat a half of a pie.  Well, it’s a tough job, but somebody’s gotta do it.

Of course, being the over-analytical type, I wound up with a methodology. By my fourth piece of pie, I had a little routine down: appearance, then topping, then filling, then two crust samples – one from the center of the pie, and one from the edge. I made copious notes, so I could remember one entry from the next. You would have thought I was building a legal case or something. I was the Ken Starr of pie judging.

And you know what? It was all for nothing, really. The winner, a German chocolate pecan pie, stood out like a scream within the calm.

You know what else?  That winning pie was baked by a ten year old girl named Haley.

You know what else?  Haley won the same contest last year, too.  I mean, is that cool, or what?

Haley is cute as a button, and obviously loves to bake. She’s grown up cooking with her dad, Jason, and her grandmother, Sharon, who lives about a mile away. Being about 25 years ahead of her on the Food of Love curve, and knowing the memories she’s making with them… well, I got a little misty-eyed just talking to her. I’m sure she thought I was a little nuts.

I thought long and hard about whether to ask Haley for her recipe. On one hand, it really was a beautiful pie, and sharing it would be a wonderful thing. On the other hand, if she agreed to give it to me, I’d be left wondering whether she really wanted me to blast it all over the Internet or not. Maybe she would do it to be nice. Maybe she’d regret the decision later.  Is there an age of consent for recipe sharing?

As a compromise, I decided to give you the most successful chocolate pecan pie I’ve ever made. It’s not quite as good as Haley’s, but if she writes in with hers, I’ll definitely let you know.

Congratulations, Haley!  We just met, but somehow, you make me proud.

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The Brazoria Heritage Celebration was an impressive event, complete with a parade, barbeque, gun show, car show, historical exhibits and demonstrations, and tons of stuff I didn’t get to see.  I’ll definitely be going back next year!

 

Chocolate Chunk Pecan Pie
Adapted from Joy of Cooking

1 baked 9-inch pie crust (use your favorite; my go-to recipe is below)
1 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
3 large eggs
1 cup sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1 teaspoon vanilla or 1 tablespoon dark rum
½ teaspoon salt
3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, cut into ¼-inch chunks
3 ounces white chocolate, cut into ¼-inch chunks

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and bake until toasted and fragrant, 6 to 10 minutes.

Whisk the eggs, sugar, syrup, butter, vanilla (or rum), and salt until blended. Stir in the toasted nuts and chocolate chunks.

Warm the pie crust in the oven until it’s hot to the touch, then pour in the filling. Bake until the edges are rim and the center seems set but quivery, like gelatin, when the pan is nudged, 35 to 45 minutes. Let cool on a rack, refrigerate until cold and hard, then slice. Let the slices return to room temperature before serving, or warm them in a 275°F oven until the chocolate just begins to soften.

 

Pâte Brisée (Pie Dough)
Found on marthastewart.com several years ago

2 1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces
¼ to ½ cup ice water

In the bowl of a food processor, combine flour, salt, and sugar. Add butter, and process until the mixture resembles coarse meal, 8 to 10 seconds.

With machine running, add ice water in a slow steady stream through the feed tube. Pulse until dough holds together without being wet or sticky; be careful not to process more than 30 seconds. To test, squeeze a small amount together: If it is crumbly, add more ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time.

Divide dough into two equal balls. Flatten each ball into a disk (for quicker chilling and thawing), and wrap in plastic. Transfer to the refrigerator, and chill at least 1 hour. Dough may be stored, frozen, up to 1 month.

Makes 1 double-crust or 2 single-crust 9- to 10-inch pies.

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(In Search Of) King Cake!

I have lived all of my years in the Lone Star State, save for three — and in those three short years, Louisiana stole a piece of my heart.

Right out of college, Matt took a job at a company called CAMECO in Thibodaux, Lousiana (which is now part of John Deere).  I still had a year to go at Southwestern University, and some day I’ll tell you the story of how we “met” (hardly the right word when you’ve known someone your entire life), fell in love, and eventually married — but for purposes of brevity, I’ll just say that I finished school, spent a year working in Houston, and then got hitched and moved to Louisiana.  We’d heard that living in the same state ups your odds of staying married, at least in the first year or two.  Not knowing any better, we were willing to try it.

People back home often asked me how I liked it “over there,” and my pat answer was that it was like living in an entirely different country.  How a place we share a state line with can be so different, I cannot say — but it’s true.  And I loved it.

Of course, one cannot comment on the peculiar culture of Louisiana without mentioning Mardi Gras — and as you’ve probably guessed by now, that’s exactly where I’m going.

It all begins with the three wise men — you know, the ones from the second chapter of Matthew’s gospel.  Every January 6th, the Catholic Church celebrates the Solemnity of the Epiphany of the Lord — that is, the revelation of Jesus to the Gentiles.  I won’t go into the theological details, but let’s just agree that it’s a pretty big deal, and therefore, worthy of a party.

On the Church’s liturgical calendar, Christmas season technically begins on December 25 and runs through Epiphany, on January 6th — what we all simply know as the Twelve Days of Christmas.  Europeans traditionally celebrated Epiphany with huge Twelfth Night parish parties, which featured a king cake.  In honor of the three kings, or wise men, of the Epiphany story, hidden in the cake would be three beans or coins, and whomever found the prizes were crowned the kings and queens of the day.  While the royalty were being outfitted for their office, the Christmas tree was taken down and “plundered,” which means the ornaments were removed, the branches were stripped, and it was stored until Lent, when it was made into a processional cross.  Meanwhile, the kings and queens held court… which is to say, they partied till the break of dawn.  Cheap beads imported from China may or may not have been involved.

I'm ready for my close-up...

These days, Epiphany still marks the end of Christmas season, but it also signifies the beginning of Mardi Gras season.  Along the way, the beans and coins turned into ceramic charms, and then into plastic babies.  Parades were added.  Krewes were formed.  Inappropriate behavior and overindulgence ensued… but one thing still holds true: the king cake.

And that’s all very well and good, you see, but here’s the thing: in the entire time I lived in Louisiana, I met many an expert home cook.  But never, not once, did I have a homemade king cake.  They’re kind of like doughnuts, in the sense that everyone picks them up at a bakery or grocery store, and next to no one makes them at home.  Is it me, or is that odd for a confection with such a rich cultural heritage?

For years, I’ve been casually looking for a good king cake recipe, but never found one compelling enough to warrant an attempt.  Then recently, I made the acquaintance of Jim Gossen, a perfect Cajun gentleman that lives here in Houston, but grew up in Louisiana and still has a home on Grand Isle.  Certainly he’d have a recipe for king cake, right?

Right.  Jim very graciously shared with me that his family enjoys the French version in Julia Child’s Mastering The Art of French Cooking: Gateau des Rois.  Of course!  The recipe I’d been searching for had been under my nose all along.  I eagerly consulted my 2003 anniversary edition of Mastering, and I’m ashamed to say, I couldn’t find it.  Before you suggest it, yes, I checked Volume II, too.  Either Julia can’t write an index, or I can’t read.  Maybe both.

Just as I finished turning every page of the desserts section of both volumes of Mastering, the universe reached out to me.  John Besh shared his king cake recipe via a link on Twitter, and when I clicked through, get this: it was this article by the Houston Chronicle‘s very own Greg Morago.  Sure, John is no Julia — no one is — but the recipe was from his beautiful My New Orleans cookbook, which is basically a love letter to Louisiana and its food culture.  So I had to try it.

As you can see, I went a little over the top with the tri-colored glazes and the beads, and Matt walked in just as I finished utterly destroying our kitchen.  But a funny thing happened when I cut him the first slice and handed him a fork.  He started talking about Louisiana.

While I did the dishes, he told me stories I hadn’t heard before, about his time there before I arrived.  He was a young engineer, still wet behind the ears and from out of state, much less out of town.

At the CAMECO offices, a lady named Pat traditionally brought the first king cake of the season, on January 6th.  Knowing that Matt didn’t know a king cake from his elbow, Pat stopped by his desk and told him to be sure and get a slice, which he did.  And sure enough, when he cut into the cake, he hit something rock hard.  Oh no, he thought.  What’s wrong with this cake?!

Immediately his co-workers started exclaiming, He got the baby!  Big Tex got the baby!  Hey Matt, that means you gotta bring a king cake tomorrow.

Great.  Not only was there a foreign mass in his slice of cake, which he would have to somehow politely ignore, but he had no idea why his colleagues were going on and on about a baby.  Or how he was going to produce a king cake on less than 24 hours’ notice.  Knowing him like I do, I’m sure Matt turned beet red while he tried to figure it out.  And having later gotten to know many of the folks that were in the room that day, I’m sure they lapped it up.

What an outstanding example of how food connects us to a time and place. Laissez les bons temps rouler!

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p.s.  While I greatly enjoyed Mr. Besh’s king cake, I still want to try Julia Child’s recipe.  If any of you have time to point a dim-witted food blogger in the right direction on how to find it in a book she already owns, please let me know…

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